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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:50 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
Posts: 30
Location: Leopold
Hey guys,
First post, not a good one either.
This mini hadnt been run for around 5 years, finaly put it back together in the last few months, got the engine running about 3 weeks ago.
Problem is there was oil leak and clutch fluid leak. Thanks to the help of the Minisport guys, i realised i forgot the copper washer between the high pressure hose and the slave cylinder.
Now all this oil that is leaking can be seen from the photos below, coming from the diff output flanges. I have run my hand down behind the tappet covers, and theres no sign of oil there, so in my eyes it has to be the output chaft seals, theres oil all around them (and i believe their sealed with a selastic, have new seals coming aswell).
The outer CV joint boots are both stuffed, so i have some new ones coming (no clicking on the joint).
I would like to replace and do all this work myself, im just worried that if i roll the car off the ramps, jack it up, wheels off, drums off, pry the shaft out between the pot joint and the diff, will i have enough room to get right under the car safely to get the diff output flanges off to put the new seals on, safely?
Anyway, and help and tips appreciated, and motivation :lol:

Hopefully once this is all sorted, will get the RWC done, get it on the road, and start meeting up with everyone :)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:01 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
It`s best to pop the ball joints & tie rod end out & rest the wheel assy on a tin or stump of tree :-) (carefull not to damage or stretch the brake hose) as it lets you swing the axle with it`s inner guts of CV still on the end of it right out & away , leaving you the room to rip the pot out & replace the seal &/or gasket (whatever is needed)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:09 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
Posts: 30
Location: Leopold
Thats a good idea, but i have to take the shaft out anyway, both CV joint Rubbers are cracked and torn in places. I will have another look tommorow and see if i think i can reach the diff from the wheel arch rather than from underneath. Thanks for the quick reply :)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:17 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Location: Brisbane
no man,,, you won`t be able to do it unless you have the car up in the air,,, or rather you will curse yourself for tring it that way,,, just jack it up & wack some axles stands under it,,, wheels off, ball joints & tie rod ends off, pop the wheel assy out a little way & rest on a tin or block or milk crate,,, swap boots , seals, gaskets, whatever you need to do & then shove it all back together

big hammer & big chissel & "SMACK" the pot joint out,,, you`ll need some rooom under the car to do that... unless you have special leyland pot joint removing tool part number such-n-such

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:31 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
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Location: Leopold
Allright Allright, i will give it a go. I assume anywhere on the bottom of the subframe is allright to jack it up? Only have one jack stand i can see in the garage (surely the other one isnt far), but i might have to use an assortment of ramps, jacks and stands :P
Im sure i will work it out somehow, will have a go at it tommorow afternoon :)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:37 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:44 pm
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Location: Far North Queensland
Don't forget to drain the engine oil before you remove the pot joints. You will have a real oil leak if you don't :evil:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:41 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
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Location: Leopold
Yeah i wont forget, but thats whats killing me, since i put oil in the engine and got it started, its probably done 1km of driving and about 30 mins of idling....... But i have another 5L of oil to go in, so its not tooo bad.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:17 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
Posts: 30
Location: Leopold
Well i had a go today, everything was fine except the 2 ball joints, so im going to have to wait to guy buy or borrow the tool to get them done properly. Steering arm came of allright. Does look like with the right tool will be a lot easier than i thought. Just have to play the waiting game now :)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:26 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Good stuff. Although you can get the ball joints off without a cracking tool, they are a blessing once you have one in your mits.

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:53 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
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Location: Leopold
Yeah i spent a fair part of the day hitting away at it, no luck. Will find the tool.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:42 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
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Location: Leopold
Ended up borrowing a fork splitter of my mechanic, got both the shafts out today. Started taking photos on the 2nd shaft, step by step, so i can put a picture tutorial together for everyone else who wants to have a go.
After doing the first one, the second gets done much quicker :)

Time to go get some new grease and some diesel tommorow, and wait for my minisport parts :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 2:56 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:35 am
Posts: 30
Location: Leopold
Hey guys, spent today cleaning up the shafts and joints, all good. Just used diesel, a brush and air compressor to do the cleaning. Took the flanges off the diff after that, to my delight there was no seal, or gasket goo between them, and i could clearly see the oil pressed between the flange and diff, so im 130% sure thats my leak. 8)
Can anyone give me help how to get the rubber seals off the flanges (in the pics) i have tried with flat head screwdriver, but they seem rock solid. There wasnt an issue with the seals, but i have new ones coming so i figured i would replace anyway.
Thanks for any help :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 4:02 pm 
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religious status
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I put them in a vice carefully, stick a flathead screwdriver in there, and whack the handle sideways. Works for me...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 4:04 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
smack them out from in behind

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 4:30 pm 
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ginger ninja
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Location: Hiding from mini maxx's moggie army somewhere in Brisbane northside
I love the colour of your mini! I have no real constructive advice to add :oops: just wanted to let you know that I am getting A LOT of spam and pop up windows etc when i try to open your pics (one of which was definitely Not Suitable For Work!)

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guess he never learnt that important lesson, don't piss off a redhead


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