hi
i have just pulled my 1275 block out of a tub of molasses after sitting it in for around 2 weeks and it has come up very nice no rust in the inside of the engine at all. i forgot to knock the welsh plugs out so did that today and ill put it back in for another couple of weeks and see how i go. id recomend it to people that are going to send there block away to get chemically cleaned as its much cheaper as i payed $20 for 20l of molasses.


TUCK3R

I built an electrolytic rust removal tank, it cost me about 5$ for a box of washing soda. I already had a bucket and some scrap sacrificial metal and a battery charger. You might want to make one, it takes hours instead of weeks to accomplish the same thing.

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67 Traveller - Needs restoration
www.victoria-chiropractors.ca

yes thats a good idea but times not and issue for me. how does electrolytic rust removal tank work is it just water and washing soda and electrolysis?


TUCK3R

You got it, pretty simple, negative goes on the piece you are removing the rust from and the positive goes to the sacrificial metal.

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67 Traveller - Needs restoration
www.victoria-chiropractors.ca

We built one of these for work, used a council 200L `Otto' wheelie bin for the tank.
The positive goes to a bar of 304 S/S on this one.
I dunno how well this would work for getting internal rust from the water jacket though, where molasses does a great job.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

do you think it would still work if you did the method you said but instead of water you use molasses?


TUCK3R

I would think that inside the block would be very low current density areas,
If i use this method I usually make the Part the Anode and the Plate Cathode On ferrous Metals, Using an Alkaline Electrolyte

Hey John, that blew me away!!!!! End of debate stuff that.

And, btw, thx.

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1964 Cooper UK 970 S 'CZ 4289'