Most Clubbies with a rodchange got the 3.44, whether a 998 or 1275LS.
Before that the 1098 Clubbies with a remote change all got the 3.647 diff, same setup as a Mini-K had. They just ran out of roundy bodies to put em into.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey ya'll sorry for the thread reso.... ive noticed my speedo is doing the same thing... but from 0-100kms bouncing all over the place... ive got a new speedo cable and its still doin it...

anyone suggest a good friendly instrument reconditioner around sydney?

CHeers,
Matt

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

If the needle flicks when the car is moving very slowly, and it's not the speedo cable at fault....and if you are adventurous, you can take the speedo apart and resolve the issue yourself.

inside the speedo, the speedo cable connects to a drive shaft which connects to a magnetised disc. When the car is moving this magnetised disc spins inside a large shallow cup. This disc as it spins induces a movement in the cup. The cup is connected to the speedo needle and will deflect the needle proportional to the speed of the disc.

Over time, the disc moves a forward by a tiny amount. This is caused I deduce by the odometer mechanism becoming a little gummed up. This in turn applies pressure onto the gear mechanism which in turn alters the gear alignment on the speedo drive shaft. This moves the disc deeper into the cup where it starts to touch a little, once per rotation of the disc, enough to cause the needle to flick at slow speeds. Once the car speeds up a little, the flicks even out and simply make the speedo inaccurate.

Sounds tricky, but is easier to see once it is apart.

All it takes is to slide the odometer drive gear a little along the shaft a little to pull the spinning disc back enough to stop the contact. This fixes the issue.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

*be back in an hour or so....*

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Keep grease out of the speedo head, just grease the cable up to within 100mm of the top.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It May be the speedo Drive in the gearbox, They are getting old now and I have noticed recently an increase in the number of times that the nylon gear is moving on the shaft

Keep grease out of the speedo head (unless you know what you are doing!!), the shaft that drives the pawl for the odometer has a tiny rebate in it that accepts a tiny amount of molybdenum disulfide grease. This shaft often drys out and benefits from a careful dismantle and clean plus fresh grease.

Where a lot of people get into trouble with their speedo is opening it on a work bench where all manner of magnetic swarf is floating around....I would never suggest the kitchen table, cause that might get you in trouble!! but you need a similarly clean area to work on the instrument....also, make sure the outside of the unit is fairly clean before opening it up!!

If you don't know what you are doing....just grease the cable up to within 100mm of the top

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"