finally got my sheet from Crow cams with my cam specs,
anyone know if this is any good?
advance ground on cam 1 lobe separation 110
.050 valve timing inlet opens 2, exhaust opens 4.
btdc closes 40, bbdc closes 0.
a.b.d.c .050 duration 222, a.t.d.c .050 duration 222.
Advertised Valve timing
inlet 26, exhaust 66.
BTDC closes 64, BBDC closes 24.
ABDC advertised duration ATDC Advertised duration 270.
Inlet love lift at TDC on overlap .054
inlet lobe/valve lift .2643
Exhaust lobe/valve lift .2643
Inlet/exhaust rocket ratio 1
inlet/exhaust valve lash .016.

mild road about 1 step up from std 1275

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120bhp with 450kg just fun waiting to happen

We were prob. drunk when we set it up last and thought this will be a good idea

so not bad for a 998?

Similar to BMC's 731 cam. Yeah should be OK in a roady 998.
Not much valve lift there though. I'd prefer Graham Russell's RE13.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

don't mind me. I;m just shameless about asking questions. No harm meant as I'm just born curious.

Why did you decide to go with a Crow cam when there's so much excellent information on this very forum about cams like the Russell RE13, Swiftune SW5, etc?

You're right. It's none of my business at all.

Dr. --- have you ever read what Vizard had to say about the 731?

Was he wrong? He had nothing good to say about it. Nothing at all.

Maybe things are different down your way, but I have never heard of many U.S. people running the 731 in anything. Hardly any as a matter of fact.

Don't worry Red.... it's near impossible to discern very specifically what a given cam will do based on a stack of numbers. AC Dodd places a lot of importance on the "lift on overlap" figure, but then makes general comments about a cam based on it.

Another problem is that people measure duration using all manner of checking heights, so it's hard to digest any duration figures without knowing the valve height used for checking. Some use .016, others use .050, etc.

I've always thought the best indication of a cam's performance is feedback form people who have run one in an engine similar to your own. Expert opinions can also be useful if the expert has experience with a given cam.

Even the experts, however, have trouble being too specific about a cam's performance without actually trying one. They've been surprised lots of times.

Yes I have read Vizard, repeatedly.
I ran a 731 in my 1310S motor for years, yes it's a bit limp down low in a 1275 but for a road motor it wasn't that bad for an old skool cam. At least it had some top end, unlike an S stock cam.
Offset bushes in the rockers helps the lift problem a bit.
I reckon a 731 is better suited to smallbores than 1275s.

I replaced it with a VP3 (Camtech Australia) which was much worse down low but had more midrange and a great top end (OK, it then had 1.5 rockers too).
When that cam wore out in 45,000 miles I rebuilt the motor as a 1360 and fitted an RE13, with 1.5 rockers. Even better midrange and similar top end.
I currently run an RE282 and 1.5 rockers in it, it's the duck's guts but sadly this grind is NLA now. The master has been lost interstate and only 3 of these cams now exist.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

well i got a crow cam because thats what the workshop put in,
It was fully rebuild my 998, bored 40thou,
its what they could get in stock for a mild cam I guess.

unfortunately unless they're into minis, all they do is call their regular cam supplier (Crow, Wade whatever) and get whatever they've got.... whereas we need to go looking to the people who know minis back to front

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

well hopefull It wont be to bad,
just put a new ring gear on and clutch assembly,
does anyone have an engine wiring diagram for a 76 leyland?

I'm sure it'll be fine - it'll be better than standard



have a look on ebay for the Gregorys manual with the red(?) clubman on the front - should be able to get one for $10 and it's a necessity. It'll have all the wiring diagrams in it

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

OK. That's a good lesson learned, Red.

The irony is that with Mini parts, the good parts often cost little more than the mediocre parts. Not always, but often. A good regrind from Russell wouldn't have cost much more(if any) and you'd know you were getting the best.

You'll probably do your next engine differently. We all have to learn somehow.

very true

Dad needed a new distributor cap, I told him to get Link to post him one, but he went to his local Bursons - they charged him $72 for it, I laughed and said he should ring Link, $34 plus $5 postage

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Bursons have lost me, they are too dear on most things.
And my local carries bugger-all stock. I mean, only 1 bottle of Loctite rust converter?? (and they had sold it).
So I went to AutoBarn, plenty of stock and $2 cheaper.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I can't get over the price of that dizzy cap, simon.

I can only guess it wasn't Chinese, eh?

Or did it come with a fortune cookie inside and have bad breath?