If you are talking pop rivets, I'd say no way will they handle the stress, they would just all rip out in a headon.
Welding it won't be easy, but IMO it's the only method an engineer would sign off as OK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Given I don't have the gear to pop rivet either, I was thinking any kind of rivet. Whatever the strongest is.

Welding it won't be the hardest thing to do - there's plenty of steel to lap, the new parcel shelf would just sit one thickness higher than normal. No point cutting it to match the hole! So it could be fillet welded along the top and underneath, or spot/seam welded. It's just all the patching of the paint, protecting the paint that's not being welded, getting the tank and seats out (as well as just the rear window, which is something I've not done before)...

Clubby panel is a bit bigger than the roundy one, they reinforced it for the seatbelts. It's attached much more.....
You might have to weld it to the body.....

It might be worth seeing a seatbelt fitting place first- a nice bit of 3mm plate with captive nuts welded under might be easier, and they should be able to do that.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Which way's it bigger, Doc? Did they move the seat relative to the rear window..? Or is it just that the reinforcing (think I've seen some photos of it on here) makes it bigger, and therefore tougher to fit..?

Depending on what's happening tomorrow, I might try and get over to see this seat belt mob...

If you look at a Clubby one you'll see the longer flange touches the body a lot more places. The roundy one has more gaps, is thinner too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Does anyone have a picture of the factory installed rear lap only seat belt attachments on a roundy from both inside and outside the car? By 'outside' I mean inside the rear wheel arch for the outer point, and inside the boot or under the car for the inner point.

Thanks for those photos, Morris 1100.
An example of what's so good about Ausmini - in most cases the right answer comes quickly from a knowledgeable member who is happy to share it.

What makes you think I am happy?

Here is a couple of pics of the parcel shelf of a 76 Leyland Mini S (same car as the other pics) to show how the top mounts work...

This is the top view...


And a close up to show the seat belt and chid restraint mounts..


This is the underneath view...


And another...


The way the shelf is mounted the speaker holes have no effect on the strength of the belt mounts.
There is a thicker double skin where the belt mounts are and this extra skin is supproted by the diagonal brace in the corner.

BTW, I am always happy to help!

Thanks Morris (Michael), they're the same pictures I saw that you'd posted in another thread. But always good to have photos.

Now that I'm looking at them... You say Seat Belt and Child Restraint. Did the later cars have Child Restraint Anchors..?

My super intelligent grammar checker beeped at me when I wrote that post saying: "You should use the words 'willing to help', not 'happy to help' because you don't know if the author is happy or not". But I told the checker to keep its trap shut because I know Morris 1100 is a really friendly soul who is always happy to help



See, grammar checker, I was right !!

The hole with the captive nut and the reinforcing plate is the seat belt mount and the plain hole is the child restraint mount. The ADR for child restraints had not been introduced yet. If you wanted a child restraint you just fitted a bolt, plate and nut in the empty hole.
Later cars got the captive nut in the child restraint hole.

vanquip not sure where they are near the gateway bridge i think

Roundie - thanks for the tip about Vanquip. They're in Mansfield - not too far from Mad Matt, but about a 50 minute drive from here (unless you use the motorway, and, to be honest, it's too loud in a 100 zone!). Working from home, it's not the sort of thing I can do on the way to work - it's time off. Which is an odd thing to say on a day like today, but I'm working the weekend...

I went to the guy at Ipswich this morning, he looked at it, and told me to get a panel beater to weld in another parcel shelf (just lapped, he wasn't worried about fixing to the outer shell), or similar (equal or thicker gauge) steel... He was pretty relaxed about it - not stressed about the structure at all. But if he's willing to sign it off as a 'less strong' (wish to be kind here) design than one might expect, then I'm not going to argue and tell him to fail it! Don't worry, I'm not going to go dodgy on it, I'll get it done as strongly as I can (I'm thinking about adding a thick piece of MDF cut to shape on top of the new steel instead of the masonite, too, as a 'one day maybe' speaker board, and extra bracing - will fix the belts through it), though I'm still hopeful of avoiding repainting three panels... The certifier said he didn't care if I had a Clubby shelf or not, as he'd still have to do the rest of the anchor point (and I'm sure he's thinking the belts, too - but if someone else is doing the other panelwork, they may also put in the holes for the belts, with me buying off the shelf items). I still said I'd try and find one from a Clubby... Makes too much sense not to try.

Unfortunately, no replies on my 'Wanted' thread yet, might have to ring Mini Auto and find out if they know where I might find one... It can wait until Monday! It'll be beer o'clock for Ken. At least I've finally done something.