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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:39 pm 
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Location: sydney
When you do it replace the Bypass hose. Don't be foolish and use the old one.... you will kick yourself when it goes pop two days later and cooks your motor. :wink:
Normally takes me about 20mins to get the head off, so you should have it off in an hour or so. if off for more than a week, wd40 the block surface. just make sur eyou wipe it down with thinners when refitting :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:48 pm 
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Location: GRAFTON
im up for it and yeh i already checked out all the prices for him and that included a bypass hose and also the adaptor to the head incase it was corroded.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:58 pm 
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Location: Radelaide, South Australia
Why do you need to replace the studs?

Doogie

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:15 pm 
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i was under the impression that if you use some headstuds and torque them again after already torque down again they can brake and as a precaution to do it all right rather than braking a headstud in his block .


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:16 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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do you know if he has bolts or studs/nuts?

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:18 pm 
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im not sure :oops: its a 1100 . the engines i have pulled down have been studs and nuts


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:50 pm
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Location: Wollongong
I can not do friday, I have to work. Not sure when my next free day will be. The only parts we should need are the bypass hose and gasket, which shouldn't be too hard to get. Its a shame our only supplier shut down last year, but I still may be able to source them locally.

andbat, try ringing Graham Lord Automotive or Bob Bell (both in the phone book) as they may have the parts fairly close to home.

I'm not sure when my next free day after tomorrow is. But let me know when you plan to do it and I will see if i'm free.

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 6:51 am 
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others correct me if I am wrong but its a good idea to drain the Rad yeah?

Also when you pop it back together mae sure both surfaces are spotless and flat. The engineer that crack tests it can look at this on the head for you.


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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 7:45 am 
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Andrew , since you have to do it on the side of the road , make sure if you have to wait for parts/work on the head that you make Molly look as complete as possible (grille back in , bonnet shut , no spare parts visible , no greasy hand prints) or it might be a target from council rangers or idiots .

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:34 am 
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andbat.....Just got your messages, I've got a few things to do this morning, I'll be free after lunch.

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 12:16 pm 
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Location: Bris / Syd
i personally would n't be doing it out on the street. i did one for the first time and its still all good ,, but , anything could happen that hinders ur progress once u start....... try to get it in doors so that u got a propper working environment. at least if u have to leave all of a sudden u dont have to pack everthing up and hope later on that everything goes in the way it came out .
fiji

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 2:59 pm 
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I don't think andbat has a garage that he can park in as he is only renting. There should be no problem doing it out the front of his place.

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 10:48 am 
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Location: Wollongong - Street Racer City
done and done. new topic for next problem though. trouble with idling.

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