Ive had the alt light in my clubby start off as a faint glow for sometime now and then not come on at all, but in last week it was doing this more frequently and eventually today the light is on a steady glow.

ive checked all the wires etc. whats the fix, ive had the alt reco'd about 18 months ago.

Just a guess but I would say it was the alternator again.

Check the brushes first. Typical symptoms of worn ones.
On most Lucas alternators they are on the end cover, can remove without stripping it all apart.
Cheap to buy, take an old one to an auto electrician.
One brush wears out well before the other as it gets rubbed faster.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

should the reco have lasted more than 18 months??

I would say so- I put brushes and bearings in mine 10 years ago and it's still charging...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

In that case changing the brushes is a fix but not the solution to the root of the problem, is that right

I'm suggesting check them, when the lamp starts to blink a bit then stays on it's usually brushes.
not all brushes now are OEM Quality. Some are crap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Gotcha, that makes sense.
Im guess OEM Quality means not to standards as the good ole days.

On a Lucas system if the Alternator brushes are worn the light will not work when the ignition is turned on or saty on when engine is running as the Lamp needs the fiels to be in the circuit to make it work. Reconditioning alternators takes more than just replacing brushes and bearings and painting the unit to do a proper job. The sliprings will need to be checked and replaced if worn. Windings need cleaning with a special process and re varnished. If Regulator goes open circuit the same thing happens and light does not work. One other important thing must be checked and that is the Warning lamp bulb itself. If bulb is blown the Altarnator will not excite .

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

MOrris Alt light has never bee on but is always charging correctly.

If Regulator goes open circuit the same thing happens and light does not work. Does sound correct to you Tony

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

If the regulator goes open circuit the light should come on.
I had similar issues with the light slowly coming on and disappearing but unfortunately the LS alternator had diode issues. I checked the brushes and sliprings and even though they are still in good condition replaced the lot, including bearings. Luckily the RACV depot where I worked is an auto electrical joint, and, an added bonus the boss collected a lot of Lucas gear, so was able to have it all repaired within an hour. Hooked it all back up and job's right.

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1978 Leyland Mini 998LS All Original *Sally*
2002 Mini Cooper *Coopa*

Would this be the same for a generator? ie ignition light stays on all the time means it's stuffed?

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

Beefa, When the regulator goes open circuit the light will not come on ? You are saying this and then said that it was your diodes that were faulty so that means the regulator was not open circuit. The light was on as the exciter side of the system was fine but the output side was not. Hence you had to replace Diodes. Light will not work if Regulator is open circuit.
With Generator / Dynamo it is more or less the same as an alternator with the difference that the Dynamo output does not connect directly to the battery untill the output gets above battery voltage and again disconnects when output is low. That is why on Generator systems Charge light comes on at Idle. In an Alternator this is controlled by the Diodes besides the Diodes in this case being the one way Valve to transform AC to DC. The field current is regulated as in an Alternator to controill the output oc the unit. Light staying on generally means there is a problem in the charging system which without doing various tests one can not determine where the problem lies. Guessing is not the way do test and repair. Using second hand parts (Unless tested properly before fitting) could result in the introduction of more faults to complicate the matter further. I hope I did not confuse you people any more then most of you already are! Never let the smoke out of the car's wires as it is very expensive to replace.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

This is Damo with my own account now (Beefa in previous posts)
I'm sorry I must have confused you guys earlier. I was explaining about the red light circuit and then went away from that subject and explained I had diode troubles without showing a change in topic.
If a reg goes open circuit it will not illumiinate. Nor will the light illuminate if the rotor goes open circuit from a crook winding or connection through the slip rings.