ok. how do you get the idler bearing out of the bell housing thing??? im told you heat it up but in doing this wont it expand making it a tighter fit??? also the roller bearing bit that is on the g/box if that makes sense???? thanks a lot fellas.

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1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland

A trick I learnt off the doc is to tack weld a washer onto the inner race. Prior to tacking it in, place a nut onto the other side of the washer so you can screw a bolt through. Use a suitable socket to pull the needle roller out.

Skender and I might actually be doing this tody....we rebuilt a box yesterday, and are building a GT donk today We'll take a few pics as we go.
Happy days are found in the garage...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Don't you boys ever work!? Where do I get a job like yours??

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Carter,,, firstly lets determine exactly which bearing you are talking about???

The idler is the middle gear of the 3 drop gears,,, it runs in a bearing inside the gearbox case & another in the primary case

the bottom gear has a gearing attached to it via a circlip & that bearings "out race" is sunken itno the primary case

which one(s) do you want to remove?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I used the Doc trick on the bottom one but cut through the shell with a dremel (very carefully) on the idler bearing but since bought one of these - not used it yet

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

the one that is in 2 bits one on a cog on the g\box held on with a circlip and runs inside a circle thing on the case that houses flywheel clutch etc.

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1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland

ok,,, that`s the "Outrigger" bearing

i made a puller for the bearing out of a piece of 2x1inch steel RHS , cut a slot into one side of one end of it,,, drilled a hole on the opposite side at the same end & welded a big nut onto the hole,,, slip the RHS over the back of the bearing (after taking the circlip off naturally) & wind the bolt in & keep tighteneing & off it comes

the outer race that`s in the primary case can be heated up red hot & as it cools what happens is that heat is being transfered into the case making it expand while the bearing "ring/race" is cooling & contracting & as that`s happening it can be banged out by slapping it onto the ground,,, sounds agricultural i know but works,,, Docs method is also good by welding the washer & nut into it & winding it out with a bold,,, & the other method is to grind into it with a die-grinder or dremel, effectively splitting it & it willbecome loose & fall out,,,, you can buy certain pullers but normally then need a bit of a touch up on the legs to work,,, i`ve used quite a number of pullers But the legs need to be soooo thin to get behind the race that most often they break off trying

have fun mate

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

On the outrigger bearing I have a 3/8" bolt with its head welded onto a decent thick washer (which is a loose fit in the bearing ring).
I sit it in there vertical, with bolt head on bottom of hole, and weld the ring to the washer with 8 or more good MIG tack welds.
Then I put an 850 gearbox drive yoke (rubber coupling type) over it, put a nut and washer on bolt. rotate nut and out she comes!

On the idler bearing I use a 3/8" bolt, sit the bolt head flush with the bearing face and carefully put 6 or 8 tack welds on.
Use drive yoke as above for removal.

Hint 1:
If you sit the bolt in the yoke before welding, it holds it vertical, and you can adjust the height with the nut. Then stick the MIG torch in each side and put a couple of tacks onto the bearing. This method works for both.

Hint 2:
Split the remains of the old outrigger bearing off the washer by cutting the bearing radially in 6 places. Then bust the bits off the tacks and grind the washer clean for next time.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.