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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:10 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: ADL
JUN BL
Loud stereo
Low ride height
Musical air horns
Clear tail lights.


I'm sure theres more.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:10 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Location: Baulkham Hills
I'v got some Michiba Super White H4 100/90 ready to go in my Crystals..

The Crystls coast me $100 and the bolbs $9 off Ebay 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:40 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
Dear willy,
I will help you out as the others don't want to. You will need some spade terminals, a crimper and some heavier than normal wire...how much depends on where the relay gets mounted. Go out and buy a dual New Era relay as these are fused and that can come in real handy if you stuff up the wiring. Mount the relay near the alternator and run a big heavy wire to the battery terminal of the relay from the alternator output terminal. Doing it this way instead of from the battery minimises voltage loss and this is important. Find one of the wires from the dip switch and run a wire from there to the switch terminals on the relay. This wire can be light as it carries no real current. Now disconnect the wires behind the headlights and run some heavy wire to one terminal on each headlight and connect the other end to the remaining terminals on the relay. It is important to use heavy wire not the spaghetti used in minis or any Jap car. Tape up the old wires somewhere so if you want to they can be used again. From the remaining terminal on the lights and using the same wire you ran from the relays to the lights run the earth wires back to the neg terminal on the battery. After you do all this go out and buy some 100/150 globes. They might not last long but they are bright, oh and make sure the lights are aimed correctly or you will incur the wrath of others.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:47 pm 
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THIS SPACE FOR RENT
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Quote:
Don't usually like buying second hand stuff.


car bought new was it ;)


(just helping the read to helpful post ratio;))

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:51 pm 
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1360cc
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Chris, thats the most helpful post anyone has given me so far :)

Thanks heaps! I'll get working on it tomorrow...

As for the headlight alignment, mine are kinda out (more obvious on high beam).. where do i get these properly aligned?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:45 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
There is a way of doing it against a wall but I can't remember the dimensions. Do the following before you put the conversions in as they will be too bright or better still wear sunglasses. With the lights on high beam get about 10 metres in front of the car and crouch down slowly. The lights will appear to get brighter as your eyes get closer to the focal point and as you get lower they will appear to fade again. This bright patch should happen in both lights at the same time. If it doesn't you have to adjust the height until they are the same. After this if they still appear to be to high or low adjust them both the same up or down. As for direction you have to adjust that to suit youself. There are set dimensions for all this, ask any auto electrician they will know.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:54 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Location: Baulkham Hills
big willy wrote:
Chris, thats the most helpful post anyone has given me so far :)

Thanks heaps! I'll get working on it tomorrow...

As for the headlight alignment, mine are kinda out (more obvious on high beam).. where do i get these properly aligned?

I totaly agree as a Relay this one of the next things I do to Morris
Marcia Gets one also but its all going to be Hidden :shock:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:55 pm 
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Location: Darlington
as they alwasy say - support local talent, so here is my two cent's worth. I also used this to do besater....

http://users.mrbean.net.au/~rover/headlamps.htm


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:59 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
willy you will have to run a wire from the original headlight plugs to the low beam terminals, a fairly important detail I forgot to put in and also disconnect both battery terminals before starting wiring. Before disconnecting the battery identify the switch wire you need to splice into. Buy one of those probe lights that you can stick into wires to see if there is any power there. You will also need some ring terminals to connect to the relay terminals. Different sizes for different wires. Mount the relay where it will not be exposed to water or shield it as the New Era relays are not waterproof. Before putting it in pull the cover off and have a look at the fuse set up. If you have to pull the cover off for a blown fuse make sure you do it as squarely as possible to avoid damaging the contacts. I think I wired mine using 4mm wire. It is bloody thick stuff. If you have to run wires through holes or over sharp edges put some fuel hose on the wires for protection.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 3:02 am 
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1275cc
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gafmo wrote:
I'v got some Michiba Super White H4 100/90 ready to go in my Crystals..

The Crystls coast me $100 and the bolbs $9 off Ebay 8)


Gotta be very careful when running globes with this output. In my opinion, you should use globes with 60 watt low beam elements because:

1. you wont blind people coming towards you.
2 you shouldnt continuously draw excessive power thru your wiring. It might not be able to cope.

A friend's newish GSR Lancer has fried both its headlight plugs AND the wires into it due to the heat buildup / current draw from the 90/100 watt globes. Fried - like blocks of charcoal. Not nice.

Just remember that electrical current creates heat - too much heat creates fire. You dont want fire.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:20 am 
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1098cc
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
Nathan's point regarding wiring is so true. Cars are built with lousy wiring. In actual fact the low beams need relays as much as the high beam, especially if upgraded low beam lights are fitted as these are on far more than the high beam. So all I have written above should be repeated for low beam if lights are upgraded. If the wiring does.n't suffer then the dip switch will and on modern cars thaey are expensive. Be warned.

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Everything I like is either
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 4:48 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: ADL
Thanks for the advice everyone.
I've chickened out and decided to let Mini Tech to do it.
At least hes done it lots of times before and knows what he's doing.

Thanks anyway :)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 5:30 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Yer I take your point to the letter...As I mentioned Marcia's wireing will all be hidden and recieve the attention the rest of her has recieved....
What Size wire should I run from the head light to the relay'S and then on

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:10 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
gafmo wrote:
Yer I take your point to the letter...As I mentioned Marcia's wireing will all be hidden and recieve the attention the rest of her has recieved....
What Size wire should I run from the head light to the relay'S and then on


The thickest practical size. DC suffers from voltage drop through thin wire. I reckon 4mm and the same for the earths back to the battery. If you use thin wire on the earths you are wasting your time doing all this. It is a big point most people forget. I used to use a bit of brass mounted near the battery and connected to the earth terminal by a small length of normal battery earth strap. Connect all light earths and any other accessory earth to this bar. It can look really neat done properly.

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Everything I like is either
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:43 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Rockingham - Collie WA
Hey, that's a neat idea Chris. I might pinch it.
Think I'll use aluminium bar instead but.
Still a good conductor, but looks better expecially with stainless steel bolts/screws.
As Big willy puts it, for the wank power

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