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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:23 pm 
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Postally Verbose
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:12 am
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Location: Northern NSW
Just a thought , I know auto subframes are a bit wider while an auto has the same track as a manual mini , are auto driveshafts the same length or a bit shorter perhaps ? Is there any sign on your subframe of accident damage or modification for any reason ?Do the upper and lower control arms look the same as a standard mini (how similar are metro ones ?) ?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:27 pm 
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1360cc
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Auto mini subframes were wider because of the wider gearbox casing. The diff and outputs are still normal mini size.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:32 pm 
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To stick a manual box in an auto frame you need to fit a spacer between the engine mount and the subframe at the clutch end.
Now suppose you stuck the spacer at the radiator end by mistake..... 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:37 pm 
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Postally Verbose
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Now you're following my thinking :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:39 pm 
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sports850 wrote:
Now you're following my thinking :wink:

I was already thinking it. 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:12 am 
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848cc
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Location: Flynn, ACT
I don't have a spacer fitted, and seriously doubt that the subframe is from an auto. BTW My subframe is the dry type - wouldn't all auto subframes be the hydro type?

Cheers
Matt

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:21 am 
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1098cc
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I had this problem in an austin 1300, they have an engine mount on the clutch side that is the same as a mini one, except, its about half as thick again.

If one of these has accidently found its way onto your engine at the radiator end....

Check how fat your mounts are.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:49 am 
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1275cc
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MattE wrote:
BTW My subframe is the dry type - wouldn't all auto subframes be the hydro type?

Cheers
Matt


No, they are not all hydro.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:14 am 
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It's an odd one, that for sure. As a further suggestion to help you where to look next, see if you can borrow a LH mini hub (drum or disc) with wheel bearings etc and maybe even a drive shaft with outer CV and see if that fitts up OK.

If it does, then you need to look closer at your metro hubs.

If it does not then you need to look at your engine mounts, subframe, suspension arms etc.

Just a thought.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:29 am 
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848cc
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Location: Flynn, ACT
I just had another look, and the driver's side drive shaft is fitting properly - I can't even see the ball bearings in the pot joint, no matter what position I put the suspension in. GT Mowog's idea is a good one, and I have a drum upright & CV to check with. Along similar lines, I'm going to compare measurements between my car and my dad's - gearbox to subframe, and subframe to CV. I actually suspect that the CV joint is the wrong one - ie too short.

Matt

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 1:08 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Flynn, ACT
Folks,
I think I have it sussed, thanks to all for input from Ausmini and a couple of ACT Mini Car Club bods. It seems I have to put my hand up as a duffer - I had the ball race installed back to front in the pot joint, as the pictures clearly illustrate.
Also, I'm told the balls don't sit too far into a correctly assembled joint anyway, so small error was enough to cause grief. Probably only a matter of 8mm or so...
Incidentally, the subframe measurements were the same across three cars. ie subframe to gearbox, and subframe to CV joint.
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I'd be interested in any further opinions....

Thanks again.
Matt

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 2:57 pm 
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Yeap, that I would say is part of the problem. I'd say that will probably get 'engaugement' but only on the very edge of the outer 'bell' of the CV. Remember (as you pointed out in your pics) that the deepest it will be is when the drive shaft is straight, as the suspnsion moves up and down, the drive shaft will move out and could still lead to dis-engaugement.

EDIT> The balls do sit in about 10 to 15 mm. Have you ever 'felt' a worn CV? That will give you a guide as to where the balls normall run.

EDIT EDIT> If all else 'measures up' you could put a spacer between your outer CV (in the hub) and your wheel bearing. It will need to be hard (ground from old wheel bearing?) and your could probably only make it about 3 to 4 mm thick.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 5:25 pm 
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MattE,,, sorry to post soo late onto this one (been on holidays :-) ) but reading through it, i felt like the ball race was on the wrong way round, (very common mistake) then i saw your pics of it sitting just outside the pot & it`s quite clear in that first shot/pic that the race is definately on the wrong way round

that`s the problem,,,, so swap it over & you`re away easy-peasy

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