Hey i was just wondering what things should i be on the look out or when buying a mini? I know the usual stuff like rust but what else should i just thought id ask what else to be on the lookout for


Thanks Blake

make sure what the say it is, is in fact
what it is

if the say mini clubman and its a leyland mini
well there you go

Basically , you need to remember that the newest Australian mini will be 32 years old and you need to look at any of them accordingly . Unless you are extremely lucky it won't have original paint so look for any sins (rust , bog , accident damage, ignorance damage) that may be hidden under a respray . Get a mini specialist to check it out mechanical wise or an old mechanic who know's mini's , I've seen some that were passed by mechanic's as being great cars that were almost fit for scrapping (mini's have some little quirks , it's part of why we love them) and some real charmers that were passed off as being fit for scrap . If you can , ask someone from your local mini club to come along with you for a look , that carton of beer or bottle of wine that keeps them happy could save you hundreds of $$$ or more .

You need to also figure out what you want , will you be happy with a mini that has been modified sinmce the day it drove out the factory gates or do you want something that is essentially the same as it left the factory . Price will vary accordingly of course but it's best to decide what you want first up as it will be cheaper to buy that completyely orriginal one now than it will be to buy the modified one and try to find all the original trim and restore it .

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Make sure you check the gearbox when you're changing down gear, especially from 3rd to 2nd - the synchro's are often worn from people changing down to early.

I'd check as much of the electronics as you can, because they seem to be the weakest link in a mini, followed by the gearbox.

The usual rust spots are under the spare wheel, the battery compartment, the roof gutter, and the floorpan in front of the drivers seat. In my car I found that there was more rust under the brake master cylinder, since brake fluid dissolves the paint.

Check that there is no oil in the water (this would indicate a head gasket or a cracked head), and make sure there are no unusual driving noises. If you've never driven a mini before, though, this could be hard. As said previously, a mini specialist will ensure that you aren't buying a dud.

Check some one is not trying to rip you off!

All of the above suggestions are good.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I'd suggest looking for something as rust free as possible. This can be difficult to find someone to fix for you and can be very costly and not add any value to the car. Some places to look;-

Sills,
Front Floors,
Lower A pillars,
Bottoms of the doors,
Battery Box (although this one is a fairly easy fix),
Under the spare wheel,
Around the front and rear windows,
Around the rain gutter

Yes, check out (or have checked) the mechanicals, however most of this side of it is easily fixed yourself. IMO parts are generally not expensive.

One of our members once sujested (very wise is our Phat) that if it has a new spray job, then ask why they are selling it.
Usually if a car gets a respray for sale purposes, then it could quite possibly be a bodgy one. Just a quick slap on with the paint to make the car appear sexy.

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Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

most everything can be rooted on a mini

depends how much you are spending. 10k will get you a mini that needs none or very little work and presents nicely. but 5k can get you a nice car or a lemon.

rust is by far the worst, and its not just a case of how much $ to fix it, nobody wants that kind of work, especially crash repairers.

sills and seams are the hardest to fix, around the roof area and at the bottom between the wheels.
also the A panel behind the front wheels. some minis will rust everywhere.

paintjobs can be in the same boat, if you cant paint it then it will cost a lot.

listen for wheel bearing noise (rumbling) when crusing

listen for cv joint knocking (when steering full lock, accelerate)

knocking when backing off the throttle could be a diff or an exhaust hitting the body.

excessive whine from the gearbox/diff means a costly rebuild.

also check gearboxes for worn synchros - make sure it selects all gears nicely on downchange, especially 2nd gear.

engines are very tough and long lasting, but an oily or white smoke exhaust emission means the engine is tired and will need rebuild.
also check for smokey puffing from the breathers or filler cap.

a puff of white smoke on startup or taking off from the lights means valve stem seals and its generally not hard to fix but if its constant you have a problem.

make sure all the electrics work

also avoid drum brake equipped minis, especially if they're not regularly used. It will cost a lot to fix and maintain drums, though you can buy discs from around $800

if hydro equipped, make sure its not sitting low on one side

So where is the Kat lately? His silence is deafening!

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Laying back having his toes licked by beautiful women!

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

Although disc's are preferable, I certainly would not worry if you find a mini with drum brakes. I dare say there are a lot more running drum then disc

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Your silliness has been noted.