When I push the clutch in, I can't get the car in gear. The clutch arm is moving freely under observation.
When I move the gearstick it feels like it is not firm when I try to select a gear.
If I manage to find a gear it is also hard to get out of it.
The car has no synchro on first and has a remote gearhift housing.
Any Tips please.

I haven't had much experience with remotes, but i would be looking at the external links over the diff for play and making sure the gearstick retainer is bolted down.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

first thing to check, before jumping to conclusions about broken clutches etc. etc.

shine a light down the back of the motor, get someone to wiggle the gearstick and look for a linkage above the diff housing. There are two knuckle thingys with bolts that tighten them, check the bolts aren't loose

(looks like Tom beat me)

Will have a look. First gear was getting hard to find but all other gears were good. The car had a bit of a rough ride, then sat around for a while. When I went to give her a drive I couldn't select a gear.

From your discription it could be Clutch and / or Gearbox.

If the difficulty finding just first gear could be a worn selector fork or even the selector fork locking screw has come loose (hey Doc, Rod Shift 1, Remote 0). For these repairs it is an engine out senario.

If it has been sitting a while, the clutch has has most likely rusted together. Some times with a bit of persistance, they can be freed up while in the car. With engine off, select 1st or reverse, holding the clutch in, brake ON and then try to start it. Don't try this too many times, as it is hard on the starter.

If that is un-successful, you may need to take the flywheel off.

It could also be the ball on the end of the clutch arm worn quite badly or broken off.

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Hey GT m if your selector screws are coming loose they ain't tightened properly!
I also Loctite the screws with 262 to be sure, to be sure...
Remote/850 1
Rodchange 0

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Have you checked the clutch master cylinder for leaks on the inside, as it has been sitting around for a while when you first pressed the clutch it may have damaged the seals inside the master cylinder, it may be moving the slave enough to make contact with the spring plate but not have enough force to depress it enough for smooth gear engagement with the engine running.
Also peel back the slave boot and see if there is any fluid in it as this also may be part of the problem.
Check the selector shaft that comes through the diff housing for sideways movement, if there is alot of movement it means the brass bushes are flogged out and need replacing, this will show as it will cause a longer "throw" on the gearstick when you try to get a gear, it may also stop you from finding gears if the bush is completely worn out. You will need to remove the diff housing to replace this.
As previously said remove the clutch arm and check the ball end, remove the gearstick and check the nylon cup bush, check the g/stick locating lug while the gearstick is out as it could be quite worn and not helping the problem.

Have you tried selecting gears with out the engine running or using the clutch
Do you have any trouble finding gears this way

Hope this is of assistance,

Cheers Scott

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Hint: try looking in your gearbox

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Copper 4 lyfe!

I've never had the trouble on any of my cars, only ones bought in to me

Remote/850.....0
Rod.................1

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but Rod Shift doesn't have screws to get loose or need loctiting in the first place. Superior design.

Remote/850.......0
Rod...................2

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A rod-change has that silly coupling with the roll pins that eventually wear and fall out.

...and the silly anchor rod steady bush on the diff housing, thoughtfully made from natural rubber, to ensure it is allergic to the inevitable A series oil leaks (sorry, I mean LBC anti-rust feature)
And, the outer sleeve it's attached to is pretty well impossible to get out whilst in the car, due to the thoughtful location of the exhaust system.
850/remote 2,
rodchange 0.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes, the pins do eventually wear and in an even long time the coupling also wears, but the pins do not fall out since they are locked in the shafts. I have not even had a worn pin break.

These parts are quite cheap, fairly readily avaiable and can be replaced on the roadside (if need be) and doesnt require engine removal.

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These coupling pins get so loose people put wire through them so they don't fall out (yes, they can and do...)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have also seen them lock-wired in place.