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 Post subject: Stripping block bolts
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 12:11 pm 
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1275cc
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Does anyone else have problems stripping threads when assembling engines? ive stripped about 4 now.
Is it a case of running a thread tap down the thread and it's fixed?
Cheers,
Joe

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 12:50 pm 
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Oh yeah, it is easy to strip any thread! As for a repair, it depends on which threads you've stripped but it will most likely mean heli-coiling them to get them back.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 2:24 pm 
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1275cc
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I just got a tap and die set and fixed the threads I stripped before. I don't know why i didn't get one earlier.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 2:29 pm 
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998cc
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i never have any trouble stripping threads.

i find it's one of the easiest things to do on an older car! :P


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 2:53 pm 
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a little less vegemite might help.

Are you lubing them before hand ?

The threads wont really be Much good once you strip em and retap them to the former size as there wont be much metal left in there.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 2:58 pm 
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if you remove studs by locking two nuts together it's very easy to damage the threads - proper stud remover tools are the go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:46 pm 
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blue_deluxe wrote:
I just got a tap and die set and fixed the threads I stripped before. I don't know why i didn't get one earlier.


If the threads are truely stripped then running a tap in to them will not restore them. It may just give you a couple of threads but it is a false sense of security.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 6:06 pm 
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I have built hundreds of engines and rarely strip threads. If you are having trouble then I suggest you stop doing bolts up so tight! You will be suprised of the small amount of torque required for some bolts to operate correctly.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 6:08 pm 
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simon k wrote:
if you remove studs by locking two nuts together it's very easy to damage the threads - proper stud remover tools are the go

Beware- the roller socket ones can chew the threads up more than 2 nuts ever will, if the stud is tight...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:34 pm 
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if you have stripped any thread it is no use running a tap down it as the metal has been stripped from the inside of the thread. Putting a helicoil in is the only way to go.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 8:54 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
simon k wrote:
if you remove studs by locking two nuts together it's very easy to damage the threads - proper stud remover tools are the go

Beware- the roller socket ones can chew the threads up more than 2 nuts ever will, if the stud is tight...


true - but they're perfect for head and rocker studs - short thread, plenty of shaft ;)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:02 pm 
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My tip to a mate who used to put my imperial bolts in his RX7 was "if you can't wind it in a few turns by hand it's either wrong or crossed, start again."

I ended up buying him a mix of metric bolts and a metric socket and spanner set, made his job a lot easier :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:05 pm 
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Tombo wrote:
.........who used to put my imperial bolts in his RX7...............


:!:

Chinglish :?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:14 pm 
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850man wrote:
I have built hundreds of engines and rarely strip threads. If you are having trouble then I suggest you stop doing bolts up so tight! You will be suprised of the small amount of torque required for some bolts to operate correctly.


But then again, there are those that insist on following that age old mechanic's golden rule......

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:40 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
Tombo wrote:
.........who used to put my imperial bolts in his RX7...............


:!:

Chinglish :?:

No worse than some young blokes with Minis who manage to screw M8s into 5/16 UNF or UNC... :lol:

They should teach `em thread system differences at school or somewhere... :evil:

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