Damn! So close...



If someone wants to give it a more serious try: Nissan Mikra K10 5 Speed. Very smal gearbox! But it's too weak even for a 1.3 Mikra anyway so probably of little use

Diff has the almost same diemnsions, but I fear the crownwheel of a Mini will not fit or needs some serious machining. So not worth it either, since there are well priced and strong 4 pin diffs available.



Sorry for that pointless post, but I had to vent my huuuge frustration about non-interchangable parts - which leaves me with a pile of useless jap metal scrap. Taking the place for at least another 998 engine to store away...

Cheers,
Jan

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No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

why don't you ask? i have a motorbike gear set from some Yamaha bike, a bigger one, with more power than your mini but i don't have the time ....

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Rover 214 atm ....

...and I don't have the skill! The only thing I could do to make it fit is hitting it with a BFH

I had that gearbox left over from my last winter car. And was going to scrap it anyway (need a bit of alloy to liquify ). The Yamaha one would be a sequential gearbox, right? That's what I realy don't want for a daily driven car. But a 5 speed - that would be nice

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No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

have you ever tried? if not, how do you know you can't do it?

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Rover 214 atm ....

Maybe I could, but neither do I have any access to the right tools, nor do I know how to use them. I don't know. I'm assuming the worst, just in case

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No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

you will have to fit another idler gear to drive in on the input shaft. Same problem with bikes gears. I am doing a 6 speed sequential shift out of a honda cbr 1100 race replica bike into the mini case. the bike gears are twice the size as minis and much better material.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

was waiting for David to have a chip in here...

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

can david please do a 'How To' !!

Please!

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71255

David, can't you just cut some new cams then change the A series rotation direction?
eg a Fiat 600 and a Fiat 850 sport are damn near the same block dimensions, but the 850 sport motor runs anticlockwise. As a mate found out when he bolted it to the 600's gearbox and went to drive away....
Fix? he just used the 600's cam and dizzy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes. I just noticed that the Mikra's mainshaft is a single piece

So would need something like the drive on this Hewland 5 speed:



Which would make it - unless you find omething 'out of the box' probably very expensive (I would not want it straight cut, bearing in mind it would be for a road car!).

I'm following your posts with big interest And I think, contrary to me, you have the skill, tools and machinery to make it happen

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No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

yes Jan,,, you`re right,,, that mini box is close to that 5-speed gear kit,,, it`s very close,,, so close that it`s laying right ontop of it

go David you good thing--- make yours look like that Hewland & i`ll buy one (if i havn`t already made mine by then)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

well I will try to explain and one day when I get home for more than 5 minutes I will post some pics.
Gear ratios cbr1000rr 1st is 2.5:1 and 6th is 1.1:1 low it top but will pull better. VFR800 honda has same shafts and gears are interchangable with cbr 1000. 1st is 2.8:1 and 6th is .89:1 better for cruising.
The main shaft fits into the original position but I am using taper roller bearings on the shaft.
The input shaft is inline with the recess where the reverse gear fits in a 3 syncro box
The selector drum will require a cut out in face of boxjust below where the oil pipe mount is.
The drop gears I am going to use original helical so drive is from crank to idler gear[still in original position] then to the mini input gear, still in original position but free wheeling ,not to drive shaft.
The input gear is same number of teeth and is inline with the reverse gear shaft.
The drop gear end of the box has a new 3/4" thick plate that is machined to take the input shaft bearings and the shafts for the gear selectors. The indexing star wheel is at this end.
The reverse gears are original mini[at this stage for set-up] and are fitted to the two shaft ends. The sliding gear to reverse drive has shaft center that fits into the hole for idler shaft [center web]
The gears are a bit of a problem due to size. 1st gear is at drop gear end and will need a bit cut out of the side of the box and re-welded. The 1st gear is about 4" in diameter and about 7/8" wide. The rest fit in with out clearance problems.
The problem with the drive input is to fit the gear shafts in and allow clearance for the crank swing so the input shaft had to fit at bottom of the box To get from crank to the bottom of the box And the correct rotation was either 2 gears [crank to input shaft] or 4 . With two then the gears would be very big and the crank gear would need to be changed.
I am trying to keep this std and minimise the cost. Time will tell.
The selector is using the original shaft[3 syncro "remote" set-up as they are more plentiful and better oops] So the gear stick just goes back and forwards for gear selection, and reverse is back to neutral[between 1st and 2nd] and then push the gear stick side ways to select reverse.
So any ideas or suggestions as I probably have forgotten something.

PS the drop gear set-up is same as the hewland but I am using the original drop gears at this stage to keep cost down.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

*jizzed...

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Sure I could help you out Dave .... I'll just fetch you another cup of coffee

Hmmm more coffee more ciggys and the brain goes into overdrive
speaking of overdrive a VFR gear set with 10" wheels and 3.44 diff will give you roughly 110kms/hr at just under 3000 revs, but it would be slow accelerating and would be slow pulling in top gear unless you had a 44 gallon drum of torque, OK Matt I know what your thinking

On the subject of gear boxes, Asphalt included the pic of the diff,BUT!!!!
go to Quaife's website, look at the details of the mini diff and down load the drawings[PDF at bottom of the page] Then do the same for the honda civic diff[2 bearing sizes 40mm and 35mm -- funny but 35mm is 1.375" ] and compare the 3 diffs.
Then get onto flee bay and do a search on "Honda LSD" and you will find a brand new ATB diffs made by OBX in USA for around $350 [some times cheaper] The blokes racing the v-tec civics in USA are punching around 300 neddys thru them and they are bullet proof. Crown wheel PCD is the same as mini ATB, but has 10 --10mm x1 bolts instead of 6-- 3/8" UNF
Two complete brand new civic drive shafts here about $100. No more stick in a bucket fit CV joints and no more oil leaks

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com