Hi all,

I noticed a consistant tapping noise under the bonnet, so I got set up to adjust the rockers. But before I got there, I noticed that the tapping noise wasn't coming from the rocker cover, it was down behind the block at the fuel pump.

Thing is, I have an electric fuel pump - this one's not attached to anything, but it's 'lid' jumps up and down making a little popping noise.

The top looks like this: http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-par ... X1818.html

I wouldn't have a clue about fuel pumps - is this normal? Is there any way of stopping the noise if it is?

It sounds like the mechanical fuel pump is stuffed. Take it off and fit a blanking plate over the hole.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

I agree. Mechanical fuel pump sounds stuffed. If you are running a electric pump get rid of the mech one. I have heard stories where the little arm breaks off and falls down into the motor. Better to just get rid of it.

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

When I did up 1310/71's rodchange box, I found a pump arm embedded into the bottom of the diff housing by the crownwheel.
Immediate thought.. WTF...!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah, thought it seemed a little dodgy to have the old pump still there.

Thanks guys!

hahaha - that would have been funny to find

Have seen it done before, just in case the electric pump shits itself, a bit of hose and of you go again!!:roll:

Take the mechanical pump off and fit a blanking plate.

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I have had Minis come along that had the mechanical fuel pumps still fitted and not connected as they had an Electric replacement. you will be surprised what sucking noises they can make. Another Mini I had last week that had been sitting for about 4 years, it came to me to re connect all the wiring and get the engine going. I put about 5 Lt of fuel in the tank and in no time it disappeared. No leaks on the ground but I luckily checked the Dip stick and noticed the oil level rose way too high and looked pretty thin !. It had a hole in the Diaphragm and pumped the fuel I put in the tank straight into the sump. So I had to drain the oil out letting it drain overnight and replace Oil and filter. Then fitted and electronic Pump and blocked the hole off.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Not mini, but related:

We had our AP5 valiant sitting with a full tank of fuel for a long time, and when we went to start it up, it blasted oil everywhere. We presumed a blow seal somewhere, but since we couldn't afford to fix it and didn't drive it much we took it off the road.

A few years later, we tried to get it started again, and added heaps of oil, but couldn't see it on the dipstick, until we noticed that there was a very thin layer of oil that was mixed with petrol.

Somehow, the fuel had expanded in the tank with heat, pushed through the fuel pump, into the carby and into the engine. We drained the sump and re-filled it again, and it started first time. The engine hadn't been running this well since my parents bought the car - it seems that the petrol had cleaned out all the oil lines. It's still running smooth today.

Damn good motor, that slant six. Effing indestructible.

My father in law's VC blew a radiator hose in heavy Adelaide traffic, 40 degree heat. Finally stopped & we lifted the bonnet to see the motor had a nice tinge of crimson. Fixed, the hose, & after allowing it to cool, re-filled the rad. and drove off, no problems.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I did have a laugh, but does go to show how indestructable these engine where. Imagine doing that to a modern engine, now that would get a laugh (unless you were the owner)

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Boil a modern engine (eg Mazda 2L) good, and it's a head off, deck head, or go find another head proposition.
And a currently available alloy Mini 7 port head (not Oz made) has been known to collapse under head nut tension and had rocker studs pull out.

Iron heads do have their advantages.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Funny you should say that. It did happen to me when I was changing the fuel pump. I did end up taking the engine out to be able to take the part out. All fine now but back then; one simple job become a week job for me. lol.