Just a quick one, not sure if it will help. Awhile ago my Clubman started making a weird clunk/bang over bumps and pot holes etc. Turned out it was a shagged suspension cone. Dont know if it was the cone itself making the noise, or the tyre hitting the inner guard, but sounds a lot like what you're experiencing. I replaced the cones with comp spec and hi-los and it all went away.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

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-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

Got any local mini nuts/fanatics/enthusiasts who can come have a listen for a 2nd opinion? It's amazing sometimes what a fresh pair of ears can hear

cheers

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Steering Rack.

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Have you checked the suspension knuckle.

What happens the grease dries out the ball rubs thru nylon joint and makes contact with the metal upper arm.

Hence you get a noise at full travel eg going over a speed hump.

Kiwiinwgtn

it's wheel bearings have you got disks on front?

check that big nut in the middle if it is not torqued up right it will make the wheels clunk in any direction.

Ie not tight enough, i did this nice novice mistake.

fixed it up happy days now.

I thought this nut was already checked? You have tightened this haven't you headgasket? (sorry don't know your real name) if you tighten this like NG says, it will located the CV better, and possibly stop clunking altogether..

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

I haven't checked the big nut, but I will do so now. I didn't think to check because when jacked up, the wheels/hub/drum all are very firm (less than an mm's play). Also IIRC there's a cotter pin holding it in place?

After all the tightening I did, the car is quite good 90% of the time, no longer clunks over speedbumps. But when one wheel goes down/up independent of the other (potholes), it clunks loudly, both sides. Still clunks when on/off the gas.

That sort of suggests it's something connecting both sides, which is either the sway bar (tight as anything) or the steering rack. Maybe the bushes in the rack have died (never seen inside a rack) and it clunks when the tie rods go up/down.

I realize I didn't test the diff as doc suggested too, will spend another few hours under the car this weekend.
Edit: Name is 'Vader', or just call me HG

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Copper 4 lyfe!

Ok so today I took the wheels off and had a look at the hub nut. It's tight enough that it doesn't budge with my adjusting spanner, and the cotter pins are still in place. If it's loose is it obviously loose? Anyway I did all the hub testing top/bottom left/right, everything's nice and tight. I also did the jack up one side and test for clunk in 1st gear, no clunk.

The only thing that makes any noise at all is the steering rack. I tried turning the wheel from inside the car when it was jacked up and it has a clunk sound when changing directions (not there when the car is sitting). I'm 90% convinced it's that.

It looks fairly straightforward to replace... undo two U-bolts and steering column pinch bolt, then wiggle out?

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Copper 4 lyfe!

You'll need to drop the front subframe down about 3" (75mm) or so to get it out.

Take the carb(s) off, jack up the front of the car, place the body on stands (I usually put some 4 x 2 across the floor), place your trolley jack under the sump, undo the 4 bolts in the floor (that hold the subframe), undo the two at the front, then undo the 4 tower nuts (or bolts) and then lower the subframe on the trolley jack, just enough to get the rack out and no more.

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You have covered the basics of the steering rack removal, other than you have to drop the front subframe to allow the rack pionion enough room to clear the car body, which means disconecting the exhaust, clutch slave, engine steady, remote / rod change housing, front shocks, speedo cable

The above is to get you 3 inches of clearance

Time to get out the Haynes Manual my list above is from memory

Steering racks are a PIta of a job

Kiwiinwgtn

try doing one on the side of the road!!!!!!

been there done that

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

bugger that, its a pain even in a nice garage

yeah i kno!!

in the town of Kilcoy North QLD, I had to change one with a mate, wat a cun* it was, NEVA AGAIN!!!

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

URGENT PM sent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Get you suspension checked and repaired professionally and stop guessing at it. It may cost someone's life if not repaired properly.

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