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jester99
 Post subject: Brakes light switches
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:45 am 
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My early mini has the hydralic brake light switch fitted, but i find i have to press very hard on the pedal for the brake lights to come on. i have fitted a new switch but no change.

Anyone fitted a brake light switch on the brake pedal on the early mini's? the mechanical/electrical type? is it possible to fit one?

Jason 8)

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jester99
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:33 am 
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can anyone tell me if the bracket to mount the brake light switch is on all mini pedal boxes?

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Hanra
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:55 pm 
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Yeah Ive found that with my hydraulic switch also. Plus I tend to use the gears a lot to slow down and my Honda discs dont require a lot of effort to stop.... Wouldnt be difficult to fab up a simple bracket though.

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GT mowog
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 2:44 pm 
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If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

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Mick
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:20 pm 
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These microswitches make life pretty easy. The extended arm is 50mm long and it is good for 5 amperes and 250 volts. Not bad for $3.75 at Jaycar. All you need then is a small L bracket from a hardware shop and a little contortionism to get up under the dash :P

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

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Last edited by Mick on Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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ryan
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:05 pm 
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I Used a switch like the one mick showed. But no need to make a bracket, I just mounted it straight onto the bracket that runs out towards the driver on the underside of the dash.

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Convertible Mini
 Post subject: Auto Switches.
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:26 pm 
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Just my 2 cents worth... These Micro switches you have mentioned are not DC rated and must not be used on Cars. The spark caused by Switching DC current is much greater than a spark caused by switching AC. Ac Switches do not have contacts that are hard enough to handle DC. There is a difference between DC Auto Switches and 240 AC volt switches. They might work for a while but not exactly designed for the Job otherwise they would not be marked accordingly.

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jester99
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:49 pm 
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Ok thanks for pointing that out Convertable Mini.

8)

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Mick
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:16 pm 
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Convertible mini is correct. Unless they are snap action contacts, have a suppression cap or flywheel diode fitted they can arc and damage the contact over time or weld them shut. The rule is to derate the switch by 1/3rd to 1/2 if you are unsure.

Many microswitches are rated at the same current for low volt DC operation as high volt AC, but most just don't distinguish and simply provide the high volt AC rating without describing a low volt DC rating. Even at RS there is only 1/2 a dozen that do.

With two 21 watt bulbs in parallel, the total current draw will be 3.5 Amperes. With a 5A microswitch derated by 1/3rd, then this is fine. Derate it by half and it is over. Eventually the switch will fail, but how long depends on the switch.

If you don't want to trust the Jaycar, then there are two here that look the biz with long actuating levers (although the pic doesn't show) and are rated for 5A at 125VDC.
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... breadCrumb

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:19 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

I have a 90° right angle drill, so I used a seriously shortened 5/16 drill bit to put a hole in the RH rib of the pedal box in situ, then made a bracket from Dexion slotted angle.
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.

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GT mowog
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:33 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.


For something out of a Lucas box these are very good and highly reliable. These are the ones I use too.

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Flute
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 9:15 pm 
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A couple of links with some pics. Hope these help.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=

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scotta_74
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 4:35 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

I have a 90° right angle drill, so I used a seriously shortened 5/16 drill bit to put a hole in the RH rib of the pedal box in situ, then made a bracket from Dexion slotted angle.
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.


Looks like I may have to come around for some surgery Doc! :D

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drmini in aust
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:13 am 
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scotta_74 wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

I have a 90° right angle drill, so I used a seriously shortened 5/16 drill bit to put a hole in the RH rib of the pedal box in situ, then made a bracket from Dexion slotted angle.
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.


Looks like I may have to come around for some surgery Doc! :D

No problem Scott, but BYO Clubby switch, and the locking nut....

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