Ausmini
It is currently Sat Jul 19, 2025 7:29 pm

Board index » Mini Chat » Mini Chat

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  Page 1 of 1
  [ 14 posts ] 
  Print view Previous topic | Next topic 
Author Message
jester99
 Post subject: Brakes light switches
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:45 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:04 pm
Posts: 932
Location: Ipswich
My early mini has the hydralic brake light switch fitted, but i find i have to press very hard on the pedal for the brake lights to come on. i have fitted a new switch but no change.

Anyone fitted a brake light switch on the brake pedal on the early mini's? the mechanical/electrical type? is it possible to fit one?

Jason 8)

_________________
'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW
Image
Top
 Profile  
 
jester99
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:33 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:04 pm
Posts: 932
Location: Ipswich
can anyone tell me if the bracket to mount the brake light switch is on all mini pedal boxes?

_________________
'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW
Image
Top
 Profile  
 
Hanra
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:55 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Yeah Ive found that with my hydraulic switch also. Plus I tend to use the gears a lot to slow down and my Honda discs dont require a lot of effort to stop.... Wouldnt be difficult to fab up a simple bracket though.

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras
Top
 Profile  
 
GT mowog
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 2:44 pm 
Offline
Mods rock!
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:02 pm
Posts: 5079
If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

_________________
Image
Top
 Profile  
 
Mick
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:20 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18887
Location: Under the bonnet son!
These microswitches make life pretty easy. The extended arm is 50mm long and it is good for 5 amperes and 250 volts. Not bad for $3.75 at Jaycar. All you need then is a small L bracket from a hardware shop and a little contortionism to get up under the dash :P

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

Image

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Last edited by Mick on Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
ryan
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:05 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:50 pm
Posts: 2690
Location: Wollongong
I Used a switch like the one mick showed. But no need to make a bracket, I just mounted it straight onto the bracket that runs out towards the driver on the underside of the dash.

_________________
Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au
Top
 Profile  
 
Convertible Mini
 Post subject: Auto Switches.
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:26 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc

Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 6:57 am
Posts: 3022
Location: JIMBOOMBA QLD.
Just my 2 cents worth... These Micro switches you have mentioned are not DC rated and must not be used on Cars. The spark caused by Switching DC current is much greater than a spark caused by switching AC. Ac Switches do not have contacts that are hard enough to handle DC. There is a difference between DC Auto Switches and 240 AC volt switches. They might work for a while but not exactly designed for the Job otherwise they would not be marked accordingly.

_________________
DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"
Top
 Profile  
 
jester99
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:49 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:04 pm
Posts: 932
Location: Ipswich
Ok thanks for pointing that out Convertable Mini.

8)

_________________
'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW
Image
Top
 Profile  
 
Mick
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:16 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18887
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Convertible mini is correct. Unless they are snap action contacts, have a suppression cap or flywheel diode fitted they can arc and damage the contact over time or weld them shut. The rule is to derate the switch by 1/3rd to 1/2 if you are unsure.

Many microswitches are rated at the same current for low volt DC operation as high volt AC, but most just don't distinguish and simply provide the high volt AC rating without describing a low volt DC rating. Even at RS there is only 1/2 a dozen that do.

With two 21 watt bulbs in parallel, the total current draw will be 3.5 Amperes. With a 5A microswitch derated by 1/3rd, then this is fine. Derate it by half and it is over. Eventually the switch will fail, but how long depends on the switch.

If you don't want to trust the Jaycar, then there are two here that look the biz with long actuating levers (although the pic doesn't show) and are rated for 5A at 125VDC.
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... breadCrumb

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.
Top
 Profile  
 
drmini in aust
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:19 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
GT mowog wrote:
If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

I have a 90° right angle drill, so I used a seriously shortened 5/16 drill bit to put a hole in the RH rib of the pedal box in situ, then made a bracket from Dexion slotted angle.
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
Top
 Profile  
 
GT mowog
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:33 pm 
Offline
Mods rock!
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:02 pm
Posts: 5079
drmini in aust wrote:
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.


For something out of a Lucas box these are very good and highly reliable. These are the ones I use too.

_________________
Image
Top
 Profile  
 
Flute
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 9:15 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 11:50 am
Posts: 2639
Location: Bentleigh Melbourne Victoria Australia
A couple of links with some pics. Hope these help.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... highlight=

_________________
Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club
Top
 Profile  
 
scotta_74
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 4:35 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 11:47 am
Posts: 1212
Location: In Transit, Sydney
drmini in aust wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

I have a 90° right angle drill, so I used a seriously shortened 5/16 drill bit to put a hole in the RH rib of the pedal box in situ, then made a bracket from Dexion slotted angle.
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.


Looks like I may have to come around for some surgery Doc! :D

_________________
Your silliness has been noted.
Top
 Profile  
 
drmini in aust
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:13 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
scotta_74 wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
If you have a hydraulic switch then originally there was no provision for the mechanical pedal switch. You can make a bracket to mount a switch easy enough, but mounting that bracket can be a PINA without taking the pedal box ot, then it's easy.

Try a Hella brand of switch, not the crappy one that most places have :wink:

I have a 90° right angle drill, so I used a seriously shortened 5/16 drill bit to put a hole in the RH rib of the pedal box in situ, then made a bracket from Dexion slotted angle.
Switch is the nylon Clubby one, it works great.


Looks like I may have to come around for some surgery Doc! :D

No problem Scott, but BYO Clubby switch, and the locking nut....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  Page 1 of 1
  [ 14 posts ] 

Board index » Mini Chat » Mini Chat

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 83 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.