Hi to all,

Just wanted to let the mini community know about a result to a common and annoying problem for all of you with a rattling remote gearchange.
After much procrastination and searching i have recently had my remote housing line bored and bronze sleeved creating a solid stiff and noiseless gearchange for the first time in 35000 kms.

Steve and Andrew at Leigh Engineering in Heidelberg have rebuilt my remote and its the best money i have spent on the car in years. These guys have a long history in Mini engineering and racing and provide a magnificent result.

For those of you in search of a solution to this issue, just get it done.

hi.. i have this exact problem with my remote g/box. can you explain exactly what you had line bored and bronze sleeved?
it is a very annoying rattle

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

Interesting...specialy when we spend som much time on all the other Linkages.
Ruff Price

http://www.leighengineering.com.au/

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

A couple of $$ for a Morris Minor front trunnion bush is all you need.

Cheap, fool proof and totally effective.

Cheers, Ian

If mine gets loose enough to rattle, I'll pull another remote off the pile...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi to all,

The source of the rattling in a remote is often attributed to failure of or wear in the the little nylon cup that sits under the ball of the gear lever, and in some cases this is the problem.

However, if the rattle is only bad in 2nd and 4th and you can stop the rattle by pulling the gearstick to the side while in gear, then the problem is in the housing itself. 1950's technology had not perhaps figured out that a steel selector rod in an alloy housing was going to cause wear through vibration.
Much use causes the holding sleeve holes in the alloy to become loose and hence the rattle.

To fix, the housing is set up and line bored to make these holes bigger and bronze bushes are then pushed into the holes. I cannot remember where they come from but the bronze bushes are readily available because they are used in a mini gearbox elsewhere.

Most engineers could do this once they understand what needs to be done, but i went to Steve and Andrew because of their intimate knowledge of mini internals. They have rebuilt the tooling to do this and you may be able to simply swap a housing over now.

I will leave pricing to them.

Hope this helps

Interesting how they had to mod the works rally cars to stop the stick sizzle (which they did if you check the build sheets) because they only had worn shift mechanisms to fit....

Cheers, Ian

i was told it was the nylon cup, but it didnt fix the rattle.
in the end i put a new gear lever in, as i think the ball had worn in the socket.

much improved now.

It is a good fix to a very annoying problem. Good for you for biting the bulet and doing it.

Hmmmm.....my rod shift don't do that

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Oh-no! Don't start that again!

cheers,

Jacob

(My remote change is better anyway..hehe)

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

There is a lot of wear points in the remote shift, good to see you fixing the problem rather than giving up and living up with the rattle.

When they are in good condition they are way better than any oil leaking rod-change Allegro box.

remote or rod that is the question, but I have done quite a few rod shifts and found a successful way of stopping the rattle and made them smooth to operate and reducing the amount of travel of the gear stick.
Similar to what you had done except the bushes are made from acetal plastic and when the case is line bored I also bore the bit where the rubber boot fit so it takes 2 back to back seals.
Get rid of the plastic ball on the stick as when the gear stick travels in a arc it's lowest piont is in neutral and when in gear it is out of the base of the aluminium block. Rattle time
I replace this with a plain spherical bearing in a new alloy block and the gear stick slides in the bore of the bearing and had constant location in all positions.
The other thing is to replace the spring and circlip on the stick so it has more pressure on the top cup/ball arrangement.
Then seal the base plate and half fill it with oil, smooth as silk to operate.
Another trick is to ditch the so called coupling and fit a small uni joint. That coupling allows the whole shaft to rattle as well

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
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