Absolutely nothing...the poor dear.

But I did drive more than 100 miles round trip to look at a Mini in bits with steel work done and paint (blue with white roof and nonnet stripes)...so the ad and photos said.

Took blank Bill of Sale, chequebook, flashlight, camera, son Jeremy brought another flashlight and mirror....

We were prepared to go....and when we had seen it all we also knew when to go.

Told the poor chap that the steel work (new panels had been bodged, gaps, daylight,...), missing one scuttle closing panel and one rear apron closing panel, two holes drilled in new wings for Canadian crash bumpers but no reinforcement...and not to have the later crash bumpers...rotted out front damper mounts ignored during the steel work...needed to be taken back after steel repairs made right and resprayed...OUCH.

As a former MGB, Midget and Land Rover owne he should have known better but alas not so.

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

Got my mini towed to my new house. Work can now commence to fix the burnt out loom[/img]

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replaced the pins in the 4 door hinges for the project.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Ordered sills and beaver panel

Replaced the bush and bearing in the rear trailing arms, following Mick's excellent "How To" guide.

Bought the adjustable reamer sometime ago in preparation, fitted the new bush, all set to go, and then discover the reamer guide taper thing is too small for the bearing end of the arm, bearing not fitted . Bugger. Couldn't find a suitable one around town, even a loaner, so my friendly machinist Barry came to the rescue. Turned up a sleeve that fitted the bearing end of the arm with suitable hole in the middle for the reamer guide. Worked a treat, lined the reamer up prefectly. Job done .

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Steve

Pulled out the rear subframe yesterday....

Replacing rubbers, handbrake cables, brake hoses.... fitting adjustable rear camber, hi-los and new shocks...
and of course radius arms on checking need bush and bearing replacement...

So ordered reamer last night, trailing arm kits today ...
Removed bearings and bushes today - whoever came up the the dynabolt idea - I owe you a beer or 3 !! ( great to use a BFH for a purpose )

but sounds like I could have fun with the reamer when it arrives....

contemplated installing the rear hilos but thought better of it, stupid weather

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Master of the Moggie Army & Founder of Awesomestock2010

cut out all the unnecessary wiring and changed back to an orig type binnacle but now my temporary oil pressure gauge is leaking on the shelf. also tried to adjust the timing, its running heaps better but now its just blowing smoke and cant get it back and the idle is too high. Distributor is knackered along with the diff so i dont think my mini is gonna get to much drive time these hols

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'63 850/1100 + more cooper goodies

Stripped her out, POR15'd the floor and sub frame. Painted the engine bay, painted the engine. Bought some dynamat, started work on recovering the dash pads, resprayed rear window sills and B pillars, cut rust out of rear seat. Still waiting on a new dash, redesigned my clocks, unwrapped my new interior (thanks Paul)treated rust in sill and A-pillar, converted brakes to disc brakes, stopped by Johns at Mini King to discuss converting my HS6 twins to suit a mini, waited on GR to finish my head.
Been a tough 5 days.

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So... I'm Seifer

Boy all in one day, you dont mess around do you.

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Us city folk work a bit faster than the country folk.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

checked out that the garage is still standing and prayed that the container has not fallen off the ship.

cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

***Sigh*** went out in the garage again to look at Henry sitting there with no heart. Dammit I have to get my arse into gear and get him finished! Wiring loomis cleaned and spliced, engine done, subframe completed with disc brakes and starting the painting on the engine bay.

Only been 3 years since I last drove him!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

Went to fit the H/S drive flange bolts to the 1360 (Clubby GT box).
Couldn't get it over 55ft/lb, then BANG the bolt broke off flush with the shaft.... hey it's only 40 years old. Of course I'd Loctited the thread, too.
Couldn't drill it in situ, as the break was crooked.
So out with the diff and pull the shaft out.

Good thing I have a lathe and 7/16 UNF taps.. it's all good now. Just need another bolt.

[edit] I also found that the rubber `seals' they sell for S drive flange bolts in Sydney are too thick now- 7.5mm+, vs 5.0mm for originals. So, they tear up when compressed.
They are also natural rubber, which is allergic to oil- go figure... They look like rocker cover bushes to me.
I'll make 2 more 5mm thick flat lurethane ones then (cut em off aftermarket early bottom arm bushes).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

set the wheel dollies up and pushed the ute into a corner out the way of everyone

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion