Just wondering if anyone has made progress on an engine assembly how to yet. Hope to pick up my engine bits next week from the machine shop. It's been a few years since i've rebuilt a mini motor so a guide to remind me of the things i need to watch out for would be good.

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

Everything is pretty straightforward really. Dead easy with the correct tools and a manual for torque wrench settings. Make sure that your assembly area is clean, then clean it again.....then clean it again. Make sure your tools are spotless too.

Don't rush the job then no (costly) mistakes creep in.

Good luck - you'll be fine.

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

if you need a workshop manual you can borrow one of mine if you like

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Master of the Moggie Army & Founder of Awesomestock2010

Good advice - and tell your wife/partner/girlfriend/mistress NO interruptions like

"dinner's on the table"

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Ok....let's get the 'How To' bit of this thread going, then some kind person could perhaps edit it and the mods could then post it as a real 'How To'.

Lets assume this is for the engine only and the gear box is already done and ready to be bolted on and the block is all nice and clean etc and that you have a manual whereby you can get clearances/torques etc etc

1. Place the piston rings into the bore and 'gap' each ring - one at a time.

2. Assemble each piston with its con rod, rings, gudgeon, 2 circlips (make sure these go in the correct way) .

3. Use a ring compressor and locate the pistons into each bore - use the wooden handle of a hammer to knock them down into the bore.

4. Turn the block over - careful not to scratch the top face where the head bolts on.

5. Put bearings and thrusts into position - now place the crank into position.

6. Place all bearings into position and tighten all bearing caps. Ensure the crank turns as you go. Torque all to specified settings.

7. Put in your cam shaft - careful not to damage bearings as you do this.

8. Prime the oil pump and attach it (gasket and gasket goo). Pay particular attention to the 3 bolts which may be too long - if they are, just cut off a little bit and try again. If you don't do this, you might have zero oil pressure!!!

9. While your engine block is still upside down, attach the gear box (gaskets and gasket goo). Don't forget the small rubber ring that seals the oil pipe between the block and gear box - hold this in place with a smear of grease or it might fall out when you turn it upside down to place it on your block. Tighten all bolts, nuts.

10. Turn the whole thing up the right way now.

11. Sort out your primary Gear end float.

12. Press in a new oil seal into the engine end cover then bolt this into place making sure not to damage the oil seal around the primary gear.



TO BE CONTINUED.......please feel free to add your bits and pieces or point out where I've gone wrong or stuff you do different.

Cheers

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

engine building lubricant for the bearings?

plenty of engine oil for the pistons- ring assembly bit?

.............minor suggestions.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

What he said ^^^ and make sure you fit the bearing caps (AND the crank thrust washers) the right way round, or it'll be tears before bedtime.

re the circlips- fit them with their sharp edge outwards.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And...are you meant to offset the ring gaps?

Yeah I put the top one 180° away from exhaust valve and equal space the others.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ah,,, if it`s all been measured up & checked for tolerances/clearances---> (never trust a machine shop,,, always re-check them yourselves & also clean it all again & again) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

then i`d be fitting the crank into the block first,,, making sure it turns freely ,,, i even rip it back out to check for any drag/grab marks on the bearings, & rectify if need be, before trial fitting it again checking it turns super-dooper freely (lubed well of course)

then once you`ve nailed that part & it`s locktited & torqued & thrusts are set correctly etc... then i fit one rod at a time, onto the crank from the bottom, swinging freely outside the bottom of the block (ie: not fitted into the bore) simply making sure it spins freely, then rip it off & check for drag/grab marks on the bearings & rectify that if need be,,, once all of them have been checked & all spin free without any grabbing marks on the bearings, then (after checking & confirming/modifying ring gaps are correct) , i`d fit each rod/piston assy (with rings on) into each bore & again checking the crank turns after loctite & torquing each one, one at a time

i say all this because so often i`ve caught people with "out-of round" rods, & oval or oversized journals, & miss-matched caps , or caps fitted wrong way round onto the block or rods etc etc etc & most of "these" situations would almost surely/certainly cause poor oiling issues, overheating the bearing/journal running dry-ish & obviously premature bearing/journal wear

even when it`s all "seemingly" good & measures up all good,,, it pays to check because the marks on the bearings won`t lie to you,,, it`s the sides of the bearings (the joint of the cap-to-rod,,, or cap to block) that is usually the issue & if not sorted it will "SCRAPE" the oil off the journal, running it dry, heat it up, expand even more, grab up & ,,, well,,, i hope you get the picture

in my books , this part is super dooper crucial & should be done this way or don`t even bother trying to build an engine without doing it

& please don`t forget you have "Off-set" con-rods

sorry for the interruption,,, now continue on

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Ok.... I just finished writing out a how to..... Its long... very long.....

but first

1. Its new years eve so this is a friendly, discussion... not a mud flinging session yeah?

2. I AM NOT A QUALIFIED MECHANIC OR ENGINE RECONDITIONER I learnt how to build engines kicking around my dads work shop since I was a kid... I've built engines with many qualified engine builders and learnt from all of them.... BUT I AM IN NO WAY QUALIFIED (in assembling the engine anyway).... so if you take my advice, its at your own risk.... not saying I'm dodgy... not at all.... I have every faith in what I do, but I'm just letting you know now.. ok?

3. Its bloody long and I think pretty detailed... So I readily welcome anyone and everyone to pull it appart and tell us what they do different etc its a discussion... I want to learn from people who know more than me too


Is that cool with everyone else? Its pretty big (as in 3,052 words), so it should get the ball rolling big time (even if you decide that half of it is wrong )

4. Remove all 1/8th ball bearings from inlet runners.
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... &start=105

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Sounds good Phat Cat, an "Idiots Guide to Engine Building" will suit me fine, i'm happy to add pictures as i put mine together. You forget a few things after 30yrs .

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

Mick.... Did you ever find out where the bearings came from?

No, not so far. I use small race ball bearings for a couple of things around here however. I'll look out for a gap in the inventory somewhere.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.