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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:48 pm 
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1275cc
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NG wrote:
it's out for the moment it's just those sliding windows really keep that heat in.


Yeah, that too! I was going to fit Deluxe doors, but then everyone would think it was a converted Van, not a genuine Traveller.

The deluxe doors are now on Mick's Cooper S. Better place for them I reckon. :wink:

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Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
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1973 LR Series 3 88
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:54 pm 
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haha had the same thought..


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:58 pm 
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Put single piece glass in and a felt strip on the side! :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 1:03 pm 
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Harley wrote:
Put single piece glass in and a felt strip on the side! :lol:


No, what I really want is a Clubby estate with the Rover type doors. I'd have no issue with converting that to a roundnose with panels from a Rover front cut. :D

Cheers,
Brett.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 1:05 pm 
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Careful lol. :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 1:06 pm 
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Good luck finding one of them! :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 2:19 pm 
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I thought about the condenser mounting a bit more after my last post. I think the best 3 options are;

1 mount off drivers side inner guard, ideally with a hole in the inner guard. Could also not cut a hole and mount the condenser a bit away from the guard and get as much airflow as possible through the condenser using one or two fans pushing the hot air into the engine bay. A bit hard.

2 small condenser in front of the starter motor in the grill opening with a fan from a big bike

3 mount the condenser to the outside of the radiator (furthest from the motor with a electric fan either side of the radiator and condenser. This I think is best the more I think about it as it keeps the system very compact and no cutting to annoy roadworthy inspectors.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:11 pm 
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Lindsay_Palmer wrote:
I think the best 3 options are;

1 mount off drivers side inner guard, ideally with a hole in the inner guard. Could also not cut a hole and mount the condenser a bit away from the guard and get as much airflow as possible through the condenser using one or two fans pushing the hot air into the engine bay. A bit hard.

2 small condenser in front of the starter motor in the grill opening with a fan from a big bike

3 mount the condenser to the outside of the radiator (furthest from the motor with a electric fan either side of the radiator and condenser. This I think is best the more I think about it as it keeps the system very compact and no cutting to annoy roadworthy inspectors.



Number 2 sounds okay but in the real world there isn't enough space there.
Number 3 is impractical: the AC system would just get the hot air from the radiator.
Number 1 works with the fan in the guard, that'd how my car is. There isn't enough room to mount the condenser there without a hole, the airflow just wouldn't happen.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:25 pm 
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Number 2 is how Minis from the mid-80's to mid-90's was done for the Japanese market. It's the type NG has fitted to his Traveller.

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:58 pm 
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And type 2 blocks air flow to the engine. You will run hotter.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 5:07 pm 
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Lindsay_Palmer wrote:
I think the best 3 options are;

1 mount off drivers side inner guard, ideally with a hole in the inner guard. Could also not cut a hole and mount the condenser a bit away from the guard and get as much airflow as possible through the condenser using one or two fans pushing the hot air into the engine bay. A bit hard.

2 small condenser in front of the starter motor in the grill opening with a fan from a big bike

3 mount the condenser to the outside of the radiator (furthest from the motor with a electric fan either side of the radiator and condenser. This I think is best the more I think about it as it keeps the system very compact and no cutting to annoy roadworthy inspectors.


Missed option 4

4. Man up and take the air con out altogether.

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68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 5:32 pm 
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NG wrote:
And type 2 blocks air flow to the engine. You will run hotter.

Not true, I have a 1275 SPI motor in mine with air con.
The condenser is at the front and I drive around Sydney with no heat troubles.
Cheers Pete

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:43 pm 
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I think I'll do some measuring tomorrow as either option 1 or 2 look the way to go.

Tim, can I ask what the point of your post was? You appear to have no interest in the topic.

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Lindsay Palmer
06 Mazda SP23
80 Alfa GTV (weekend toy)
86 626 Turbo (daily drive, now stolen)
71 cooper s replica
69 cooper replica
76 clubman
62 english 850
68 Mini Auto


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 10:07 pm 
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lindsay no 1 is the way to go.

what aircon set up do you have?

if you have the front mount>? you wont need to cut at all.

i have the front mount but im looking for the side mount one where you need to cut.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:13 pm 
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Not an easy job cutting a good 10 inch hole in the inner guard let me tell you. Because the edges run so close there's a lot of tools that wont fit in there to cut.
I used a total of four on mine: angle grinder, tinsnips, jigsaw and dremel.


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