Ok its a new day, and i have a new question....
I found the engine that was originally in my old clubman out in my parents shed yesterday.
The engine no. is 10016058.
What size is it? would it be the original engine in a 72 clubman?

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

It is an 1100 (1098cc) motor out of a Clubman.
The number points to it being a 72 motor.

cool,
So what are my options with this engine?
I only swapped it out of my clubman because it started blowing a bit of smoke, so i assume most of it is still pretty good.
how can it be modded for more power etc.?

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

lots of options, get a copy of this book and read it over and over and over

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Tuning-A-Series- ... 2560c25be0

alright then
i just wasn't sure what i could do with it, as i haven't really noticed many people on here with modded 1098's in there car.
obviously its not going to go as well as a 1275 could, but if there's still good gains to be made, I don't mind being different.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

there are heaps - lots of people modify their 1098's

will never have the grunt of a 1275 with the same mods, but still have the potential to have more go than an unmodified 1275

Kyoda's black & green race car has a 1098 that had 60hp at the wheels at a dyno day last year, more than a lot of 1275's

Way back in 1968, my 1098 bored to 1220 with a modified 1275 head, 544 cam etc went real hard, better than the 1275 with same head and cam that replaced it.
1098s go real good with mods, just don't rev much past 7000 if you want them to last (eg. in a road car).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok, thanks .
I guess i'll just have to get my search on and go hunting info.

Just out of interest.
Seeing as there is so many options out there.

What would you recommend i do to this engine in terms of mods to suit these requirements. Reliable, Not too expensive. obviously a bit more power and able to handle the occasional hillclimb as well as weekend thrashing. Not so worried about fuel economy. One of my best mates is a fitter and turner, so that makes things a bit easier for me. I'm not about to do this tomorrow, just interested in the different ideas/opinions.

Just to refresh your memory what i have to work with is a completely stock 1098 out of a 72 clubman. i have a 1.5inch SU i'd probably use, well because i have got it. and i have the remote box from the same car. I am guessing that keeping the magic wand would not be a good idea for harder use??? yes???

Ideas and recommendations please

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

My 'warm' 1152:

• 1015**** engine bored to 1152, so similar to yours
• Lumpy cam (don't know what grind, but suspect similar to BMC '731)
• Twin HS2's (single HS6 / HIF44 on good manifold would be just as good, if not better)
• 1-3/4" single-box RC40 exhaust fed by Maniflow-copy LCB extractors
• 123ignition dizzy (Pulsar / solid state conventional just as good and cheaper)
• '295 head shaved for ~ 10:1 compression
• 3.44 diff behind a Clubby rod-change 'box

Bullet-proof reliable, driven in city traffic daily and has done several trips btw Melb <==> Bris.

Goes plenty hard enough for inner-city driving, probably similar to a standard-spec 1275 although I'm itching to get it on a dyno to see how many bananas it has

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I searched this but had no success.....

What is the correct way to disconnect the magic wand gearshift mechanism so i can lift out the engine/gearbox.

Thanks

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Undo screws and pull the boot off the floor,
Undo 2x bolts holding the gearlever plate in,
Lift the lever out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks , i was hoping it would be that easy.
Just wanted to make sure.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

well, i have this to clean up and fix

It seems the previous owner wasn't too concerned about brake fluid leaking everywhere . Whats the best way to clean it up and un-sieze it??

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Spray with WD40 or Penetrene (better) to the clevis pin and the throwout bearing shaft, leave it a while to soak in then apply some heat to the cover. Hot air gun, gas torch, whatever.
To clean it up, ask gafmo, he's da ally cleanup & Bling specialist..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Penetrene is great stuff makes WD40 look bad.

But the plant mechanic at work left a nearly empty can of some other magic stuff, I squirted it on a rusty connection at work and it just fell apart. I will get the name off the can and report back tomorrow.