Looking ahead at bits and pieces of our "Leyland" build up, i have a set of Cooper S disc bakes and drive shafts, but the gearbox has "pot" joints not uni joints. Which end do i change the gearbox to uni's or the drive shaft to pot joint ends?
Block, crank and pistons are back from the machine shop, and the body shell is being blasted in the morning, so things are starting to move finally!
PeterN

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

Probably cheaper to go with pot joints for a road car- Cooper S diff output shafts/drive flanges and Hardy Spicer drive yokes are getting rarer and expensive.
Having said this I still run the Cooper S setups, because I have 2 sets of everything.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



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I'd be inclined to go the hardy spicers. They do come up occasionally and if you think they are expensive now, they certainly won't get any cheaper as time gets goes by. I've seen a few complete sets on ebay, and plenty of broken sets (ie g'box output flanges only or hardy spicer joints only). Do it once and do it right.

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No decision is incorrect when made - but it does become apparent in retrospect...

"Leyland"...so we're not looking at originality....

UJ bushes are a bit bigger (which may spread the load) but then the CV is much smoother (one of the design breakthroughs for the Mini was the use of the outer CV) .... Most of the uni type joints I've seen have been damaged/deformed by the hammering needed to remove/insert new UJs.

I'd just use whatever I had... (although I ditched my own UJs....)

Cheers, Ian

Ok i'm guessing then that the i can replace the "pot's" with yokes on the gearbox, ie they are interchangable on the diff splines.

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

The splines are the same but you will need the matching diff side covers... as I said, the UJ bushes are bigger.... although I believe the similar looking "auto box" UJs use the same bushes as the pot joint??????

Cheers, Ian

If you want to change your gearbox outputs to 'S' type unis you need to change the diff output shafts, diff side covers and diff output flange plus all the little bits and pieces required to secure the whole lot together... You then need the corresponding flange and yoke to slide onto your 'S' type drive shafts.

Mmmm ok then, what about fitting the later style ends to the CooperS drive shafts?

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

Won't fit- splines are different and so are shaft lengths.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

To run the pot joints and the Cooper S brakes, all you need to do is to fit the S CV joint (outer) to the end of the pot joint driveshaft. It all fits together. Really wouldn't bother changing the diff output shafts etc to the S Hardy Spicer type, there is no gain. IMO, the pot joints are the better option, I run them on my race car with S brakes.

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Steve

Ok i was looking at the wrong end then, i just need to change the S wheel hub end onto the new driveshafts.
Thanks guys thats solved one problem, probably more to come lol.

_________________
Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

I was gonna say - there were some pretty out there suggestions

just use clubman driveshafts

Clubmans? Are you sure?

Nooooooo, not the Clubman ones.. think `later'.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.