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 Post subject: Cross member worries
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:29 pm 
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I was thinking about the welding job required to fix the mod to the cross member to accomodate a racing seat in my van. Just wondering if you can buy whole new units ie replace the existing one?

Also had a panelbeater check it out re doing all the rust repair, body work and primer undercoat - quoted $1000 this sounds cheap to me what does ev1 think?


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 Post subject: Re: Cross member worries
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:38 pm 
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Bromley wrote:
I was thinking about the welding job required to fix the mod to the cross member to accomodate a racing seat in my van. Just wondering if you can buy whole new units ie replace the existing one?

Also had a panelbeater check it out re doing all the rust repair, body work and primer undercoat - quoted $1000 this sounds cheap to me what does ev1 think?


Brom..see Tim...he can probably rustle up a used subframe...

a grand sounds OK without seeing the extent of work that needs to be done!!! :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:48 pm 
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Yea just realised that cross members are part of the subframe. What do you call that brace in the cabin that the seats bolt on to then? and can you buy those? going to see Tim at work tommorrow.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:51 pm 
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I'd call it a cross-member too ......

But yea, i saw that first hand, it was the only thing really stopping me putting my money down and having a go at it....

You could just "unstich" one from an 850 or early deluxe (thicker steel aparantly) and after removing that hideous piece of crap, just spot in the new one with a MIG...I'd also be doing the Vizzard floor-strengthing mods while i wa at it.. just to be safe !

J

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:54 pm 
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What is the Vizzard mod? I got to get me a copy of that book - anyone selling one?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:16 pm 
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got a copy (Vizzard book) from the library yesterday, i got them to order me one in, opened up a new world it has, oh no $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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 Post subject: Tangent....:-(
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:30 pm 
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kazjim wrote:
I'd call it a cross-member too ......

But yea, i saw that first hand, it was the only thing really stopping me putting my money down and having a go at it....

You could just "unstich" one from an 850 or early deluxe (thicker steel aparantly) and after removing that hideous piece of crap, just spot in the new one with a MIG...I'd also be doing the Vizzard floor-strengthing mods while i wa at it.. just to be safe !

J


Oops...yeah I'd call it a cross-member too....or a transmission tunnel if it was north/south...advice is the same...see Tim.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:03 pm 
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Icall it a box section. Unstitch from the floor pan and take it to a sheet metal shop and get it remade thicker. Reinforce it at the same time for the seats.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 2:51 pm 
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Yea it seems most people are calling it a box section. I am of two minds for this one. Either replace the whole thing or just fabricate a cover for the hacked section. Option two was suggested by mini & moke world.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 3:46 pm 
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Personally, I would fabricate something to weld in place of what was removed. Leave the whole thing in place, and weld the new piece into it.

Probably the easiest and quickest fix, without compromising the structure of the shell.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 6:05 pm 
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I don't like the sound of "compromise the structure of the shell". I am going to get a piece made that fits over the existing structure. Basically just a gutter shaped piece of steel with holes for the seats. Thinking 13mm steel???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 6:09 pm 
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13mm ??

you do mean 1.3mm dont you... cant see you bending, let alone welding 13mm steel into the car !

should be sufficient.. the original steel should be about 1/16" thick, so.....1.3 mm should be close-enough....

J

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 6:16 pm 
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No I did mean 13mm - I plan on selling it to a mate in Iraq once it's finished. Another good reason for going 13mm is because of the poor quality roads around my area - 6 minis have vanished in my street alone!!!!






Ok fine I will stick with the 1.3


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