its the #4 Cyl



on number 4 cyl


not sure if i can save this block as the pistons currently in it are A2/71 040
(40 thou overbored yeah?)

next question is what happened to cause this?
my guess that the gudgeon pin has moved is this a common fail?

Doc you on air???


BTW anyone got a 1098 block in good nic??

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Could be saved with a massive overbore and rare pistons, or sleeving.
But it would be much more economical to get a new block. I have one here if you cant find one locally.

As Kirby says, a big overbore or more probably resleeve it.
On a Cooper S block you might bother saving it, but anything else I would just grab another block off the pile and use that.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Looks like a small bore by the spacing between 2 and 3.. I'd bin it and find another.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

If it's a small bore, find another, they're a dime a dozen, or free.

Big bore, i'd look into boring and sleeving costs, and weigh it up against a new big bore block

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

Salvagable - yes by sleaving, but probably not worth it. Might need to make some phone calls.

Cause - usually from the last guy fitting the pistons to the Rods putting the circlips for the gudeon pins in the wrong way around and / or dirty assembly. I also use loctite on them.

Common - yeap, quite common.

Get some Ozzy 998 rods - they were a press fit pin and will directly interchange with the floating type.

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So, cylinder #4...

There are plenty of 3cyl daihatsus around - a few mods and you can be up and running again!

Thats what mine will lokk like when pulled apart (or breaks) the circlip holding the gudgeon pin in is gone and the gudgeon pin runs up against the bore

its a 1098 block are all 1098's small bore??

if so i am guessing 1275's are considered big bore ?

or is there more to it??

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Thats right, 1098 small bore 1275 big bore

998 block = 1098 block, just different crank
Known as small bore

1275 block = Big Bore, lots more $$$, wizardry and more $$$

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

Piston height is different too- but rods are the same.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

typical problem.. one of my 1100's did this years ago.. lasted 10yrs on the build until it did it..

As others have said, yes most likely fixable, but most likely not worth it for the price you can get another block.

I have a 1098 block here if you can't find one down there..

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

I've had quite a few small bore motors re-sleaved. You don't need to do all the cylinders, and it wasn't that expensive either. It's not uncomon to find blocks that were sleaved from the factory..

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How can it be rusty when it's covered in so much oil?

Okay starting to feel like a bit of a noob
my block says 1098 so depending on the crank n pistons it could only be a 998 yes or does a 998 block have 998 on the side?

will the psitons have any special marking if they are for a 998 crank and will the same go for the crank will it have its own marking identifing what sort?

it has a 12G head on it they are they the better ones?

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