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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:03 pm 
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d1ck0 wrote:
sydlexics are teople poo


ton thay r

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:42 pm 
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Why not just tap the hole for a bigger plug? It used to be that every spare parts supplier had a box of different sized plugs sitting on the counter, you just selected the next bigger one.

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In my impoverished student days I bought a replacement engine and gearbox from a Clubman that had side-swiped a cliff. It had a crack in the sump and a stripped thread in the sump plug. I took the whole power unit to an aluminium welder and he flipped it upside down and welded the cracks, then I went to a machining workshop to tap the hole for a bigger thread. I changed the oil and dropped it into my poor old Deleuxe, it went for years.

Tim

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:00 pm 
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Timbo,, I don't think I like your attitude.

Can't you see that we're busy trying to over engineer things over here? Your clear thinking level headed attitude will get things done... I don't think we can have that happening.

:)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:06 pm 
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Phat Kat wrote:
Timbo,, I don't think I like your attitude.

Can't you see that we're busy trying to over engineer things over here? Your clear thinking level headed attitude will get things done... I don't think we can have that happening.

:)


Simmer down, nothing wrong with throwing ideas about :D

For me, if the engine is in the car and there is no reason to remove it, I heli-coil it (or what ever brand it is that I actually use), if it's gotta come out and the gearbox was gunna get stripped down anyway, I'd fit a time-sert, so I can get the original plug (with the magnet) in there.

Timbo, your idea too has merit, if the engine is still in the car, but if it was coming out, then as I say ^. Still, it's an option and a fairly easy & cheap one. It's a Champion idea :wink:

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Last edited by GT mowog on Sun Jul 10, 2011 11:16 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:11 pm 
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Timbo's plugs don't have a magnet, but it's easy to lightly press fit or Araldite a super strength rare earth magnet into one. :wink:
They work better than the pissweak originals.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:19 pm 
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I have an answer for everything.

http://www.filterplus.com.au/MagSumpPlugs.htm :D

Tim

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:25 pm 
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Timbo wrote:
I have an answer for everything.

http://www.filterplus.com.au/MagSumpPlugs.htm :D

Tim


ROFL they are all metric!!! :lol: :lol: Issigonis would turn in his grave....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:39 pm 
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Nope, you're all wrong.

Sump plugs are over-rated (apparently)

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Long_T ... Treatment/

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:26 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
Nope, you're all wrong.

Sump plugs are over-rated (apparently)

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Long_T ... Treatment/

Engine treatments, another one huh, we've seen all this before. :roll:
I reconditioned a 1275 motor and box belonging to a well known person who still lives in `the hills' about 16 years ago. He had seen the ad for Bardahl? or something where they drove an Alfa Romeo Sydney to Melbourne with NO oil in it. Alfa survived, apparently.
Soooo, he figured oil was optional in a Mini... and he let it run down to nowt and kept truckin'. :lol:
Bores, pistons, crank, cam, gears, were all knackered. I tossed eveything out of the box and fitted another complete gearset and forks, it was so bad.
The crank need grinding 2 undersizes smaller to clean up. :P
If these additives were so good why don't all the oil companies add them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:46 pm 
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Pfft.

You're all thinking too hard. Crack a bottle of wine & use the cork to bung the hole.

:P

Of course I am NOT serious!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:49 pm 
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The Duckmeister wrote:
Pfft.

You're all thinking too hard. Crack a bottle of wine & use the cork to bung the hole.

:P

Of course I am NOT serious!!

We bought a $20 paddock basher van once with a smashed corner on the box, the P/O had belted a hardwood `plug' in there. It worked, wasn't leaking. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:12 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
OK today I started to machine up a few steel repair adaptors, as pioneered by 4myego on his Cooper S. (ta for the drawing Steve).

Outside diameter is 3/4 UNF, inside is 5/8 Whitworth.

Pic of the 1st one... (sorry about the crook flash job)
http://home.exetel.com.au/zoomini/zoomi ... GP2330.JPG

You drill and tap the gearbox to 3/4 UNF, clean the thread out and dry it, put some Loctite 262 on the outside of the adaptor, fit the sump plug and torque it up.

The factory may think 25lb/ft is OK, they were in the business of selling spare gearboxes. 15lb/ft would be plenty for a sump plug I reckon.

[edit] If anybody needs one, PM me. :wink:


Today I was able to tap my sump out to 3/4 in UNF (as above) and install the steel adapter made by Dr Mini from a design by 4myego.

Very happy with the result.

Big thankyou to 4myego for the original design and to Dr Mini for making up the adapter for me.


Pics.... sorry about the quality.

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^^Sump drain drilled out to 17.5mm and tapped to 3/4 UNF ready to receive the steel adapter.^^

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^^Original sump plug used to screw in adapter, Thread locker was applied to the thread before installing.^^

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^^Adapter installed.^^ :D

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:14 pm 
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Brilliant! 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:21 pm 
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Glad you liked it Phil.
As I don't currently have a 3/4 UNF (RH) die I screwcut them in the mighty Myford lathe and gauge them with a 3/4 UNF (made in Australia) nut.

The hardest part is tapping the 5/8W thread in the bench lathe, with my equipment doing this size in steel is tedious. I think the next batch I make will be brass... :wink:
I will make the flange diameter a little bigger too, to match the copper washer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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