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Which paint have you found holds up best??
Supercrap engine paint aerosols 19%  19%  [ 4 ]
repco engine paint aerosols 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
autobarn engine paint aerosols 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
2 pak 24%  24%  [ 5 ]
specialise paint shop aerosols 5%  5%  [ 1 ]
use primer as well as aerosols on engine 19%  19%  [ 4 ]
other 33%  33%  [ 7 ]
Total votes : 21
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:19 pm 
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Am getting pretty close to painting the sirion engine now for the engine conversion/ swap and Altho I have painted plenty of A series engines over the years, I have experimented with the best paint and brand to see what lasts the best.

Altho some have lasted longer than others, I was just wanting to see what others have used and how it's holding up. It will be a daily driver so I am pretty picky as to wanting things to hold up looking their best for as long as possible.

So what brand have people gone with, place you bought it from, and application procedure?

Any help would be much appreciated,

Thanks in advance.

Lockie

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


Last edited by Lockie91 on Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:40 am 
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normal 2pak will do fine.
seen it done lots of times and it lasts.
Seen it last fine on friends EVO brembo brake calipers, so if it can handle the heat on them, it'll have no probs on an engine. :wink:
Much more durable than the aerosol stuff IMO 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 2:55 pm 
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If you go aerosols, use the VHT brands as they work really well with the oily, smokey and drippy place that is the engine bay. I have it on the Ford at the moment and has done 100,000km without a single blemish or bubble(VHT Base Black semi-gloss acrylic). Prep is most important though and you have to be meticulous in it. 3-4 coats will see happy days ahead.

Hooroo

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 5:55 pm 
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MrFail wrote:
normal 2pak will do fine.
seen it done lots of times and it lasts.
Seen it last fine on friends EVO brembo brake calipers, so if it can handle the heat on them, it'll have no probs on an engine. :wink:
Much more durable than the aerosol stuff IMO 8)


I've never sprayed 2 pack through my spray gun, only acyrlic... then I'd prob need clear as well to stop it from things like brake fluid and degressor...


I've never heard of people putting 2pak on engines b4 tho??

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 5:58 pm 
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CPOCSM wrote:
If you go aerosols, use the VHT brands as they work really well with the oily, smokey and drippy place that is the engine bay. I have it on the Ford at the moment and has done 100,000km without a single blemish or bubble(VHT Base Black semi-gloss acrylic). Prep is most important though and you have to be meticulous in it. 3-4 coats will see happy days ahead.

Hooroo


thanks mate :) where do you by that brand, certainly not a supercrap brand,, is that repco from memory?

The last time I used repco brand as soon as I gave it a degresser in the bay at a service with the hose, it came flakying off... :(

I'm very particular when it comes to prep work with paint, and make sure its very clean to begin with etc..

Has anyone put a primer down on the engines b4, or just used the normal all in one aerosols?

I'm looking at getting the paint in the next week, so please vote above and help me decide :P

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:14 pm 
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Autobarn stock VHT.
They also up until recently stocked K&H aswell. Should still be K&H stock around depending on how busy your autobarn is and on clearance. K&H make some very good products but I cant speak from experience with their engine paint.

Supercheap stock 3M which is the same as K&H but different labels for reasons I wont get into now.

Not sure what repco stock.

Ive had no problems with VHT, VHT also make an engine primer which Ive never used but would like a reliable opinion on.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:25 pm 
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I repainted mine blue back in 2009.
It was supercrap engine enamel but its held up well. The sump still looks like new, but a few bolts have started to flake on the head, thermostat and timing cover. But thats because they have been off several times since it was painted.
Cheers, Rhys

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:48 pm 
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Lockie91 wrote:
I've never heard of people putting 2pak on engines b4 tho??

Thats just cos most people do it themselves at home, and don't go to the trouble of doing it properly.. :wink:
Having said that, i'm sure aerosol will be fine for what ur looking for, and probably a bit cheaper too.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:49 pm 
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MrFail wrote:
Lockie91 wrote:
I've never heard of people putting 2pak on engines b4 tho??

Thats just cos most people do it themselves at home, and don't go to the trouble of doing it properly.. :wink:
Having said that, i'm sure aerosol will be fine for what ur looking for, and probably a bit cheaper too.
A friend of mine did many years ago. It was just after 2pac came out (I remember they had to get a Booth installed at his work). He painted his 8R Motor out of his RT72 Corona MkII and we all "ooh'd and aah'd" about how glossy it was off the gun.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:57 pm 
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Bunnings! Kill Rust paint. Its epoxy, takes a while to dry but sticks like poo to fur and doesn't dull off. Saying that, I've never found I've needed anything special, the engine block hovers between 80 and 100 deg C which isn't as harsh as one would think for a paint. It just comes down to how glossy you would like it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 10:02 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Bunnings! Kill Rust paint. Its epoxy, takes a while to dry but sticks like poo to fur and doesn't dull off. Saying that, I've never found I've needed anything special, the engine block hovers between 80 and 100 deg C which isn't as harsh as one would think for a paint. It just comes down to how glossy you would like it.


+1

Pretty much all I've ever done, and why... Though I don't even bother with anything as fancy as rust kill.... I just usually grab a tin of Enamel and a brush. It lasts and lasts. Though, like Mick said (or hinted) it does lose its gloss after a while (Like a year of daily driving),, but the colour is still there and so is the paint.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 10:09 pm 
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I have used VHT a lot and found it very good provided you start with a clean base, no paint sticks to oil.

I cooked a motor that was red once, got it real hot and the head turned a few shades darker :oops:

One i did in VHT Ford light blue didn't even stain from the oil leaks.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:06 am 
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I used the por15 branded engine paint, self levelling brush on. Needs more than the one coat that they recommend but has a nice colour after and looks like it will hang around for a while.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:14 am 
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seifer wrote:
I used the por15 branded engine paint, self levelling brush on. Needs more than the one coat that they recommend but has a nice colour after and looks like it will hang around for a while.


do you remember how much this set you back?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:22 am 
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It was around $50 I think, not cheap but I was happy with the result.

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