No reply's????????? Was that question too silly????

I have another slightly less silly

I am going to seperate the engine from the gearbox, so i can have a quick look in the box and make sure its all good to save a potential headache down the road.
What gaskets/seals will i need to remove and replace the gearbox ???

Hopefully that makes sense???

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Add any if I forget some...

You will need:

Engine/gearbox flange gaskets,
Half moon seal,
Oil pickup O-ring,
Timing cover backplate gasket,
Timing cover gasket,
Timing cover seal,
Primary cover gasket,
Primary oil seal.


The ones in red may be optional if you don't wish to take apart the timing cover, but I think its poor form not to take the opportunity to change the timing chain and seal at the very least.

It may be more economical to get a gearbox exchange gasket set and add a few extra gasket to the purchase as you see fit. However, to get the idler gear clearance right you might need to use a couple of different primary cover gasket types to get the right end float. They're reasonably inexpensive in any case..get a thin, medium and thick one when you pick the gaskets up.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks again

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Ok i have a confusing but probably simple question..

I'll start with the facts first i have a remote type gearbox out of a 72 clubman. But it needs the idler gear and inner bearing. So i was going to run with the idler gear off my other magic wand gearbox and use the clutch housing end bit off it too as the outer idler gear bearing in it is good.

Ok now for the question..... Which type idler gear bearing do i need for the inner one??? The 4 syncro type because thats the gearbox i have, or the 3 syncro type cos thats the idler gear i have??
There seems to be different types for the 3 and 4 syncro boxes...

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

1.
Both 3 and 4 synchro boxes have a 0.750" idler shaft.
2.
The idler shaft on the 4 synchro idler is longer on 1 side (that goes into the gearbox).
3.
3 synchro boxes (most) have uncaged needle rollers on the idler gear. The diameter of these bearings is smaller than the 4 synchro ones (which are caged, and are 1.062" OD)

If using a 4 synchro box I would find a 4 synchro flywheel housing (the one with a breather flange on top).

[Note I'm not talking about later rodchange boxes here, they have a .875" idler shaft and even bigger bearings].

re your previous Q, use filler caps without a breather. Tank has a tube breather at the top already.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hmmmm.... well this is the fly wheel housing off that gearbox, to me it looks exactly the same.. THe one on the left is clubman remote one, and the one on the right is the one that was on my magic wand..





This is the gearbox that I am using that I assume is a four syncro off the 72 clubman..

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Yeah both those covers ARE the same- if your 850 has a 3 synchro box someone has added that later cover to it. It's used on all 4 syncro boxes including yours, except the later rodchange ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok, well they must have swapped to this cover when they swapped out the original 850 for the current 1098.

So using this cover it fine??
And i'll just need the 4 syncro type idler bearing then for the inside one correct??
Do i need to make sure I have the correct idler gear, as you said they have different length shaft. ???

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

The bearing in a 4 synchro box is further in, to give better stability to the idler gear.
If your idler gear has equal length (short) shafts ie is a 3 synchro one, you should remove the outer circlip in the box and knock the bearing outwards so it's almost flush. But I'd find and fit a 4 synchro idler instead of doing this.

BTW I always replace both idler bearings when doing a gearbox rebuild. They get a hard life with big motors.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ah, ok..
I just had a look and they are equal lengths, so its a 3 syncro one.
I'll see if a can get a hold of a 4 syncro one then...

Thanks for all your help Dr...

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

OK, I have a small wiring question..

I got a new wiring loom from minispares and it has these 4-way female bullet connections to connect/split some connections like the headlights, and the rear section of the loom etc. But some parts just have male bullet connections either end and don't have the 4-way connections needed to join them together.
Can you buy these connections??
Or is there another neat way to plug 2 male bullet connections together without cutting off the current connections?

I'd rather not remove any of the current connections as I think that way looks pretty neat. But if its the only way to do it properly I will do it.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

going back to this picture

the bottom hole is for the outrigger bearing (input shaft support bearing if that's it's proper name) - this should also be replaced.

The outer bearing race is pressed into the transfer case (pictured), and the inner and rollers are on the gearbox input shaft.

You're not supposed to mix them up, which is what you'd be doing by using the outer from your old gearbox, and the inner from your new gearbox

To answer your wiring question, the red/blue/yellow male bullet connectors can be opened up with a razor blade to go into the larger mini loom female sockets. Red/blue females sockets can be opened up, but you need to take the plastic off them, then you're left with a bare socket... male to male - you're probably best off cutting one off

so many ways I could have made that reply rude

Ok.
Some more wiring questions..
Can Anyone give me a basic wiring diagram for the floor start button.
I ditched my old loom and got a new one. And I anm running all new battery cables. but I can't remember exactly how it is supposed to wire up.
Here's what I think ....
Live Battery cable go's to one side of the button. then the other side has one wire going to the starter motor and one that go's up to the dash and hooks up to the main loom...
Correct???

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Anyone????

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

The wiring diagrams here :

http://www.spridgetmania.com/web/SCatag ... ticleV.cfm

Should head you in the right direction.

cheers,

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project