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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:51 am 
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848cc
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Location: South Australia
Any tips, single SU, we took the air filter off and poured some fuel into the carby directly, we were able to get it to start, however it wont stay started. The car has been sitting in a shed for a while, we have put a few liters of fuel in. It appears to not be sucking fuel through to the carby.
Is there any little tips to get a "dry" car started.

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It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!!

1976 Mini SS
1971 Mini Ute (Custom) - really hubby's but I will claim half :)
1976 Mini SS Shell
Oh and an 850 shell waiting for our dear son to start his resto!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:07 am 
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Is there a sufficient quantity of oil in the dashpot :?:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:18 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Gulgong
There a few tricks and a few things to watch for.

Is it an electric fuel pump or a manual one. ???

Now I would take off the rocker cover and also take out the spark plugs. Then just wind over the motor so everything is spinning. The rocker cover is off to make sure the oil pump is pumping oil and hasn't all drained into the sump. You will quickly destroy the motor if it does start and no oil is being pumped. You should see oil being pumped and falling off the rocker shaft.

Both the electrical and the manual pump rely on gravity to get the fuel to the pump and then they push the fuel rather than suck it. So you need enough fuel in the tank for this to happen in a dry car. A few litres might no be enough.

Just disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the carby and run it into a jar or something until you see fuel is being pumped.

Two things commonly happen on a standing car. The needle and seat in the top of the fuel bowl can stick and either it doesn't let fuel in or it doesn't stop the fuel coming in when the bowl is full - take the top off the fuel bowl and check that.

The other thing that happens often is the the little rubber seal between the fuel bowl and carby main perishes and it either leaks or blocks.

You already know the car is going to start so work backwards.

Tell though is it a manual or electric fuel pump - both have different problems on a dry standing car.

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:19 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 3:57 pm
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hi, mine had sat for 5 years with out starting and i had a similar problem with mine. I ended up putting about 10 litres in to the tank and poured fuel in to the carby and it started and stayed started straight away with a good battery. check your plugs aren't fouled up and that your fuel filter isn't gummed up either. hope that helps :)

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:35 am 
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848cc
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Location: Gawler SA
Not really relevant to Mini's, but we used to connect an external pressurised oil supply [100psi] to Bus motors to pump oil through the oil galleries etc prior to initial start-up after reconditioning.

Wouldn't be hard to make something similar... "T" fittng in the oil line between filter & return line??

[Jeff's Dad]

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:46 am 
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1275cc
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Yeah - it could work - the "t" thing.

If it was me - I would firstly make sure the oil pump is primed by spinning the motor witout the spark plugs in. Then once I know it is pumping. Do an oil change and oil filter change.

Standing oil can go very sludgey and be hard to pump around. The other alternative would be to change the oil first and then manually prime the oil pump by taking out the oil relief valve and using a large syringe.

Either way - you really need to know oil is being pumped round before running the engine. It will destroy its self in minutes otherwise.

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:57 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:49 pm
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Location: Gawler SA
Didn't think of the Oil Relief Valve.

Swap the valve/ cap for an oil line & pressurise the whole system through there.

That way oil would get to all parts...Cam/Crank/valve gear etc

[Jeff's Dad]

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1974 1150cc Leyland Mini S racer,
1975 No motor Leyland Mini "ute"
1991 IPRA Honda Integra (in the build)
1995 Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi

CAMS Scrutineer


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 Post subject: Thanks
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:10 am 
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848cc
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Cheers for the info guys - we will give it a go :D

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It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!!

1976 Mini SS
1971 Mini Ute (Custom) - really hubby's but I will claim half :)
1976 Mini SS Shell
Oh and an 850 shell waiting for our dear son to start his resto!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:27 am 
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ausmini mod
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Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:47 am
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Location: Kellyville, NSW
How long is "a while" ?? Mine sat for 12months and needed new battery (you dont obviously) and it kicked over no drama... stalled a few times but eventually with throttle it worked fine.

Was it actually dry or did it have old fuel in the tank? If its old fuel, thats a problem, you need to drain it first.

If completely dry - then could be pump, could be carb, anything... I reckon if it starts (which it does) its NOT spark plugs/ignition
Its fuel - as you said, its not pumping fuel, I wouldnt worry so much about oil, etc I would work on the fuel pump ideas.
ie/ simply test that its pumping fuel... then go from there.

Pete

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:53 am 
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If priming the oil pump it is better to leave the relief valve in, and pour oil into the banjo bolt connection on the block, above it.
Both these oilways connect near the pump, but unlike using the relief valve hole, the oil here will flow down into the pump by gravity.
Leaving the valve in stops the oil draining into the sump.

Good idea also to put it in 4th gear and push the car backwards a couple of feet, to suck the oil in & wet the whole pump.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:31 am 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
for this problem, I'd guess that the diaphragm in the fuel pump has crapped itself

DA9jeff wrote:
Didn't think of the Oil Relief Valve.

Swap the valve/ cap for an oil line & pressurise the whole system through there.

That way oil would get to all parts...Cam/Crank/valve gear etc

[Jeff's Dad]


I do that on first start up of a new engine - but use a pressurised tank connected to the oil pressure outlet on the block. After hearing oil go through the motor, I get oil coming up through the rocker shaft - instant oil pressure

when starting an old motor (and new obviously), always oil down the plug holes, the bores are dry - any crud stuck to the rings will scratch the bores up nicely


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:15 am 
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simon k wrote:
any crud stuck to the rings will scratch the bores up nicely


Meh! Thats a way to get a free hone! :-)

So 1976miniss - has the car started and running ok yet?

Pete

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 Post subject: Whoo hoo!
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 2:47 pm 
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848cc
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Hubby changed plugs and oil etc, and managed to get her started just as I got home from work last night - sounds sweet and starts first pop, no issue - soooo very happy :D

_________________
It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!!

1976 Mini SS
1971 Mini Ute (Custom) - really hubby's but I will claim half :)
1976 Mini SS Shell
Oh and an 850 shell waiting for our dear son to start his resto!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:18 pm 
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well done and great news!

this was all it took from me for mine that had sat idle in a puddle of water at the back of the garagesince 96/97

fresh fuel, oil, plugs, new coil, new points and firm belief!!


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 Post subject: Mini
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:14 pm 
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848cc
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This is one if the reasons why you have to love these cars, if you give them love and respect, they give it back!!

_________________
It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!!

1976 Mini SS
1971 Mini Ute (Custom) - really hubby's but I will claim half :)
1976 Mini SS Shell
Oh and an 850 shell waiting for our dear son to start his resto!


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