as per the title what do i avoid and what do i do for a "hard runner"???

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Follow the Piston Ring Manufacture's advice and if you've a new / reground cam, their advice too.

Leyland recommend it this way

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We used to put a bag of sand on an old bonnet,tied to the rear of the car & drive around a paddock going thru all the gears... up & down, labouring the motor a bit in each gear to put a load on the rings.
Handy only if you have access to a paddock..

Whether it worked or not ,I wouldn't have clue, but it was definitely good fun & no engine died prematurely.

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1974 1150cc Leyland Mini S racer,
1975 No motor Leyland Mini "ute"
1991 IPRA Honda Integra (in the build)
1995 Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi

CAMS Scrutineer

We put my 1412 stroker on GR's dyno and he ran it in at part load for about 30 mins or so.
Then we retightened the head, adjusted the rockers and did some power runs.
It's since done around 7500km, pulls like a train and is not using any oil.
Regardless of how you do it and for how long, put some load on it early in life or you will glaze the rings up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My last motor, a 1380 built by KG Engineering in 92, was run in by me.

They told me to start the engine and get it up to temp, checking for any leaks, a quick check of the timing and set idle and mixtures. (twin su's at the time). Get it on the road as soon as possible. Full throttle though all gears to about 4000 RPM to load up the rings and seat them. Then drive the car normally. Don't over rev and don't labour engine in low revs. I used Gaffney St hill in Pascoe Vale a few time to work the engine too. The engine was brillant and done well over 100K km's with me in my van and used little oil!

Everyone has their own ideas, I'm sure GR or Drmini will have an input soon!

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Do exactly as the ring manufacturer says. If its not on the packet, look it up or ring them and ask.

Otherwise....





+1





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I would use 4000rpm, at 3000 many recent Mini engines are barely on cam properly- particularly if not using an SU.
eg. my 1360 with RE282 and a 45 Dellorto really only gets with it from 2900 up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers Guys

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I got mine running, checked for leaks and took it for a twenty kilometre drive up the road keeping an eye on the gauges and the mirrors.
When I got it home I then concentrated on getting it running better.

I run mine in on a stock cam then change it later, new rings and new cams need to be run in totally differently to each other so rather than run one or the other in, in a way that the manufacturer would say was incorrect I do the rings first then change cam shafts later....

I'm probably the only one but eh... whatever.

And yes, some engines won't come on the cam till 4000rpm... if it was running a mild cam or a standared one, it would be well and truely on by 2500 (or on the cam at idle even). I wouldn't say 4000 as a blanket comment just because its how some engines behave...

That said, to each their own. 4000rpm is higher than most manufacturers advise during run in, thats just the reason I don't do it. But hey, to each their own.