it would appear i have 2 problems - one is the clutch arm is not depressing the clutch, the other is internal. Because if i push the arm by hand, it crunches. The car is in neutral. So it's making this noise before i even get a chance to put it in gear.

If the car is in neutral, what is crunching? No gears to crunch except the drop gears. Does the primary gear turn freely on the crank?

I'd be guessing the "crunching" you're hearing when you push the clutch arm by hand is the shagged thrust/release bearing. I reckon if you replace that, (and possibly the arm and carrier if the ball and socket are worn) then you'll be back in business. The rest looks good.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

awesome, good news sgc, should be able to get it done monday when my parts arrive

ive got this all back together and the clutch is working fine, the only problem is the clutch seems to 'engage' too low on pedal. Can this be adjusted? I have messed around with the adjustable stop on the wok cover but it doesnt seem to alter it.

Bleed the clutch first.
If you keep getting air out, replace the slave cylinder seal (they suck air in when worn).
Check the pedal hits the floor (it should) If it isn't, the slave cyl piston is hitting the circlip.
Assuming there is no bad wear in the arm etc- you can either:
Weld 5mm onto the pushrod,
Bend the clutch arm,
Put a flat washer behind the release bearing,
or toss the circlip.

Of all these options IMO the flat washer one is best, because-
The cause of this (even with new parts fitted) is usually that the flywheel is lapped/worn further onto the crank taper than it was 40 years ago when built.
The washer overcomes this without compromising the clutch arm/plunger geometry.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks for the advise - will get around to bending the arm this weekend.

Just before i do - is it normal to hear a 'whining' noise when the clutch is pressed? Because this is what happens now. No noise when it's in gear.

Also the gearstick does seem to jump out of gear occasionally ... related problem?

Whiny noise is the release bearing on the way out- bin it & fit a new one whilst you're in there. I'd fit a flat washer behind it instead of bending the arm.

Unlrelated to the gearlever problem, that's another issue.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

but this release bearing is brand new... i just installed it..
thats why my clutch wasnt working in the first place
i got it from minisport

With your new whiney bearing, you didn't de-grease it? When you fitted it, did you knock it on from the centre? If you put the bearing flat on a bench and knocked the plunger in to it, you could have damaged the bearing. Also, was there a groove worn in the thrust plate on the diaphram? They are supposed to be hard, but I've see some soft ones in recent years. Does the engine revs drop when you put your foot on the clutch?

Your clutch plate looks a little worn, but OK to re-use if your strapped for cash. Also, looking at your throw-out arm, the ball on the end does look like it has a bit of wear and looking at the witness mark on it, I think the plunger has a lot of wear.

Do you know what type of gearbox you have? Is there any particular gear that it jumps out of or is it all gears?

If you've a rod shift box (identifiable from the two rods that leave the back of the gearbox to the shifter), it will usually be selector forks, especially 1st / 2nd. 99 / 100 they wear really bad from driving along with your hand on the gearstick.

If you've a remote type gearbox (identifiable by the big alloy housing from the back of the gearbox), it could be selector forks worn or loose and or worn / loose knuckle joints.

All these, except the knuckle joints, are an engine out job, gearbox off and strip down to repair them.

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crappy bearing.... I know someone who can sell you the proper one

Yeah there are real (good) bearings and there are `pretend' bearings..
I still claim the record for a dud new bearing, got 3 days out of it...

The original Timken flat face `3W5/8' ones are best if you can find any, but I've had a UK made 7W5/8 in mine for years with an orange dot diaphragm, and it's still fine.
I attribute this to 2 things-
1. The spring height was set correct when I built the clutch (spring flat).
2. I leave it in neutral at the lights, and keep my foot off the clutch unless I'm taking off or changing gear.

[edit] I've just put mine back together after replacing a leaky seal.
I have left the return spring off, and backed the stop screw away from the arm.
Clutch now self-adjusts like a Rover Mini does. Suits me fine, as I can't get to the adjuster without pulling the grille out. `Matic heater is in the way.
We'll see how the release bearing copes- with all the linkage slack it was probably touching all the time before anyway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks for your help. I didnt de-grease it... i just put it in . I installed a new plunger. I knocked it on from the outside of the bearing, now by hitting the plunger onto it. I didnt check the diaphram

It jumped out in third a few times. I guess if it's an engine out job, either way i will be putting up with it for some time

Will definetely by a better bearing next time!