so, ball mod was done a couple months ago, i love it, works well, till the engine gets warm/hot... now im not sure if this is the oil, or the ball, or the oil pump etc, so im trying to trouble shoot

Ball mod is great keeps a good oil pressure till ive been sitting in traffic for a while, or if it is hot as all buggery outside. Just went for a drive now, first half hour was fine (60psi constant) till traffic (20psi at idle up to 45psi on freeway...) then after a blast it would drop to 10/12psi at idle

Questions:
1. Would replacing the oil pump help the issue?
2. Would using a heavier oil help the issue?
3. Is this a sign of bad things to come? (ie. poor internals?)

I love this engine, and will be putting a hairdryer on it in the coming month, i want all to be honky dory when i do so... The engine will be coming out to replace cam, should i do the oil pump at the same time? if so which pump?

Looking forward to comments and advice!


Cheers,

-Matt

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

My Moke does the same thing and has been doing the same thing ever since I got it...

Start driving and the oil pressure gauge is around the 60-70psi. I drive a bit more and its like the oil gets thinner as it gets hotter and the pressure drops to like 20-30psi. If I drive heaps and the engine is super hot, it drops to like 10-15psi.

I know that this doesnt help you... but I have not had any issues with my moke (yes I am knocking wood like you wouldnt believe) over the last 8 years and she gets a lot of driving...

After reading this article by Kieth Calver, it may not be a problem!

http://www.minispares.com/article/Techn ... 58d900528b

Cheers Shane

_________________
If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Sounds like what you need is an oil cooler

_________________
WD40'll fix it!
If it don't, use a big hammer!

What oilz? Some are notorious for losing pressure when hot, eg Castrol GTX.

I have a 13 row cooler here if you want to borrow & try it..
Just need to make 1 hose up.


BTW do you have a sump guard? They don't help oil temps... but if you bore some dirty great `oles in the front they are OK.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think I may still have my near new Oil cooler and hoses in the garage also (as in it only did 3000kms on the car). It was all new from Karcraft when I bought it, but has been sitting around for around 4 yrs now.

KB

_________________

Yeah Matty
Just stick an oil cooler on it.

It won't fix the problem, but it'll mask the symptom - And make it a race car!


I would definitely be looking at the oil pump since you have the motor out. Better to do it all in one hit.
In my professional opinion.

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

Yeh, not overly keen on the cooler...

New pump will be on the list while out, anything else while I'm at it? New rings?

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

It would/should have got a new oil pump when Aaron S got this motor built.
If it has 70psi or more cold & only drops in high speed running I doubt it's the pump... but yeah take a look if it's out.
Same with the rest of the motor- I'm sure it was rebored + OS pistons etc and it wasn't many miles ago.
New rings shouldn't be needed and you would need to hone the bores again if you do.
I'd leave the pistons & rods in the motor if it ain't burning oil. They are bedded in already.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

As above if you have pressure, but then lose pressure with hot running, I don't see how that is a pump issue, or bearings etc. I'd be chasing temperature and/or type of oil. Start getting some actual temperatures, not just where your gauge sits.

How does one do this out of interest sake?

http://www.justkampersaustralia.com/sho ... 11548.html

i assume that would do it?

What sort of oil temp would one be looking at?

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Heres how i do it.

many multimeters today, have temperature sensor smarts - you then just need some thermocouple wire plugged into the multimeter. This is what i use. Alternatively you could buy some kind of cheap electronic temperature sensor (a home weather station from Bunnings?) that has remote sensing.

- Check that whatever measuring system you are using is accurate enough (try putting in boiling saucepan of water - should read close to 100°C)
- keep the measuing readout device in the cabin of the car, so you can read it whilst you are driving, feed the thermocouple wire through one of the firewall holes in your car into the engine bay.
- Clamp the thermocouple wire to the external oil pipe between the block and the oil filter housing, use a hose clip. Or if you have an oil cooler - on the outlet side of the cooler.
- Most importantly, lag your measuring point so that it is not impacted by air flowing past it. Nothing exotic needed here just some old rags wrapped around the pipe.
- go for a drive and start measuring.

The oil temp you are looking for is pretty simple, according the David Vizard, less than 95°C is fine, more than this is an issue.

happy measuring

/\/\ thank you for the detailed response. I am going to try this to work it out because now my interest has been sparked.

I have a dipstick temperature probe and I run that to a temperature gauge.