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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 4:59 pm 
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I am about to replace the front wheel bearings on my drum braked 78 Leyland, so I will have to remove the front hub assemblies. Will brake fluid leak from the hard lines once the hoses are removed? Is there a simple way to stop or slow the leak, so I have time to get the bearing cups replaced before running the MC dry?
I plan to do a complete brake fluid replacement so it doesn't bother me if I lose most of the fluid, just don't want to have to reprime the MC if I don't have to.

Thanks
Terry

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:07 pm 
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If you have a old junk rear subframe lying around, remove the pipes that run from the flexable hose to the wheel cylinder on the trailing arm, cut the line in half, fold the pipe over and tap in with a hammer to kink the steel line, now screw the female end of the line onto the brake pipe you have open, makes a sealed cap.

Doogie

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:14 pm 
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Unfortunately I don't have an old subframe or even some old hoses that would do the same job. If need be, I could clamp the hose and put it back on once the hub is removed I suppose.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:17 pm 
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Just don't press the pedal when the hoses are off!
Had mine off a few weeks ago and wondered same thing, just lose a bit that was sitting in the hoses and a bit of the pipe.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:54 pm 
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I usually unscrew the hose from the brake cylinder and clamp the hose.
I find the other end of the hose it usually very tight and difficult to reach the nut under the radiator.
Don't remove the cap from the master cylinder will also slow down the escape of the fluid

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 8:18 pm 
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Place a piece ( I fold a bit in half to give a double thickness) of cling wrap over the filler port of the master cylinder then screw the lid back on.

You can get small plastic/rubber caps (from brake specialists) to seal the open ends of the lines.

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 8:56 pm 
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1071 S wrote:
You can get small plastic/rubber caps (from brake specialists) to seal the open ends of the lines.
Cheers, Ian


Whenever i fit hydraulic cylinders, i always keep the bungs that plug the ports. Most of these bungs fit nicely onto the ends of brake pipes.

I also keep the little rubber condoms you get on new fuel filters, as these will often fit the ends of flexible lines

You can also get clamps specially designed for clamping rubber hoses, or use vice grips whilst taking care not to damage the hose

Or you should be able to keep the brake pedal depressed with a block of wood or something, as this will block the master cylinder reservoir from the circuit


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:44 pm 
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Thanks all. Some handy hints here.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:23 am 
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mini_mad_matt wrote:
1071 S wrote:


I also keep the little rubber condoms you get on new fuel filters, as these will often fit the ends of flexible lines


WHAT!?............fuel filters have sex? :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:38 am 
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I managed to use the jack as a turntable to help get the brake hose off, with it clamped, and there was almost no leakage.

However, now I have no pedal. I have changed wheel cylinders, front and rear, bled the brakes several times and still no pedal pressure. Time to consult Dr Search.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:20 pm 
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adjusted the brakes?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:35 pm 
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1071 S wrote:


I also keep the little rubber condoms you get on new fuel filters, as these will often fit the ends of flexible lines"

I most certainly did not...

But you can use these - or buy replacements if you can'y remember where you left (stashed) the free ones....

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:36 pm 
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Yeah they were all adjusted.

I did clamp the front lines at the wheel and managed to get a reasonable pedal (not perfect but good enough considering one of the rear adjusters isn't giving quite enough adjustment, and will be repaired/replaced).

There was no loss of fluid overnight and no signs of leakage any where.

At the moment I suspect there is air in the front lines, possibly in the connecting pipe, so that will be my first task tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:33 am 
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I have brakes. I opened the connecting pipe and squeezed the pedal then rebled from the nipples and now have a good pedal. Thanks for all the replies.

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