What a hassle putting the engine in !!! We spent 2 and a half hours this morning just trying to line up the holes for the mounts.
Has anyone got any ideas on improving them ???
I am sure the works teams didn't use these mounts when racing !!!!
Any ideas anyone ???
Cheers
Colin :

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Crazy Minimad

Yeah they've always been difficult to do. Stick a big Philips head screwdriver in there, wriggle it around to aligning up. Rubber grease may help but I remember that it just took about 50 swear words to get it in.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Rover mounts fit not bad.

Captive nut cheapo mounts are too thick.

Quinton Hazell mounts are well made and the right thickness, but the holes are (always have been) 4mm out of position one plate relative to the other.
So you need 3 people and crowbars to get the &^%%%$ mounts aligned and the bolts in.
I fixed them by milling the 3 holes 2mm < and the 2 holes 2mm > so the spacing is increased 4mm.
You could do this with a rat tail file, won't take long.

Like this...




I then tack weld 2 nuts inside the 2 hole plate with the MIG.
Purists may disagree, but I find it's the easiest way to get the bolts in without help.
And I've never had one come out in 40+ years.

[edit] details added, typos fixed

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Karcraft have thin ones that fit

21A 1902#
MOUNT - ENGINE - MINI (FITTED WITH CAPTIVE NUTS)(THIN)
All the other ones are HARD work

Hahaha I can seriously empathize with this.
Magnetic stick and a few extra hands. Plenty of beer.

I had no problem doing captive nut ones from minispares on the passenger side on my own. Only tricky part was lining them up on the subby. Used the handle for my trolley jack between the extractors & the firewall to move the engine around whilst I got them in place (had the trolley jack supporting the sump).

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

The last lot I got were %&#$ awfull. I just couldnt believe that the maker could drill holes in the wrong place. Comparison with an original set proved the holes were in the right place. I have fitted a few over the years and all the reproductions have sat higher on the subframe which can only mean that they are made too thick. Out with the vernier and that is exactly what was happening.

I am lucky I still have some left that are factory NOS and it was an easy fix.
The only remedy is what the Doc suggested

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Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car

I agree with the Doc.
Elongate the holes.
I then use a Phillips screw driver to get them lined up.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Another tip to try is to wrap a line of thin wire around the bolt (set-screw) just under the hex head for getting them in position, start the thread, and then pull the wire so that it goes clockwise. I agree that some lube is a good idea too. Using used parts I always using a wire wheel grind to spruce up the thread and test run it through a nut first.

Kevin's suggestion of elongation i had not heard of before and sounds great. Thanks for that mate. And as a pseudo purist - i wouldn't be concerned about captivating nuts. Last engine install i did i left the radiator out at first and do you think you can get in both retainers at the bottom? i gave up happy with one & the supports at the top of the radiator. So much for purism!

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..still waiting for the Italian Job sequel to see if the bus went down

Didn't someone also once suggest only changing one new mount at a time?

Put it back in with one new; one secondhand mount, then swap the secondhand one for a new one once the motor has settled in?
Won't be hard to work out which one to use new I'm guessing.

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The trick is always getting that last bolt hole low enough to get a bolt through.

I set up both sides by leaving all four bolts out. I keep a hint of daylight through all four with a small screwdriver or such sticking through each hole. Then I start with one bolt at a time, using the screwdriver to lever the mount down to put a bolt through. Repeat for the last three.

This means you have sufficient purchase on the last hole to get it down far enough to get the blasted bolt through.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I use tyre lever (carefully) to lever engine down, between bottom of subframe and housing nut/bolts. Bit hard to describe but I've done about 50 cars that way.....easy. Used the wire loop round bolt method each time. Rover fitted nut ones are a walk in the park. Just remember, if you're struggling, you're doing it the wrong way.