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Timbo
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:24 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
... the oil was so thick it stuck the primary gear to the crank and we couldn't get gears...


The same thing will happen if you add too much Wynns Stop Smoke to the slightly worn out Deluxe that you are trying to sell. :roll:

Stop smoke has a viscosity like refrigerated honey.

Tim

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69k1100
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Edit: I screwed that up, the doc is right the first number is the winter number

And that is really thick oil! Even though the gti has a lot of kilometres on it I stick to the factory spec oil, why? Even though piston rings wear there are some parts tolerances that don't/shouldn't open up such as crank/cam bearings and oil passages, thicken the oil and you reduce the flow. And make the pump work harder.
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Lillee
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:00 am 
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20W60 and 20W70 golly that's refrigerated honey consistency :shock:

I tried 20W60 in the old 1152 which was blowing smoke and leaking oil. It helped in those areas, but it was very difficult to find gears and shift when cold...

I do like Castrol Edge 25W50, good stuff, smells good too. Great summer oil but I just don't want to pay $48.78 for oil, especially when I change it extremely regularly (1000 miles or less sometimes)....

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mini0998
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:03 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
20W60 and 20W70 golly that's refrigerated honey consistency :shock:

I tried 20W60 in the old 1152 which was blowing smoke and leaking oil. It helped in those areas, but it was very difficult to find gears and shift when cold...

I do like Castrol Edge 25W50, good stuff, smells good too. Great summer oil but I just don't want to pay $48.78 for oil, especially when I change it extremely regularly (1000 miles or less sometimes)....



I like the Castrol Edge 25W50 as well. I get it at Supercrap when they have the 20% off sales. Buy a couple of bottles to get me through to the next sale. Paid $39 for it last Saturday.

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slide
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Valvoline XLD Classic in all my cars too, plus a bottle of ZDDPlus

5 bottles of ZDDPlus Engine Oil Additive US$40 plus $10 shipping
from www.davidnavone.com

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Mini Mad
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:39 pm 
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SuperCooper wrote:
Mini Mad wrote:
My favourite oil is:

1. Brad Penn Grade #1 "The Green Oil"

Contains high levels of ZDDP for our tractor flat tappet cam engines:
In addition to our unique base oil cut, increased concentration of “zinc” (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate a.k.a. ZDDP) provides outstanding anti-wear/anti-scuffing protection for engines employing either ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams. BRAD PENN® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils have been evaluated by a number of premiere camshaft manufacturers with tremendous success. Many are now recommending our Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils to provide outstanding protection for their ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams.
http://www.penngrade1.com/

Second choice would be Castrol EDGE Sport 20w50.

I have good results with both, the Brad Penn held the best oil pressure out of any oil I've tried during track work, you just can't use it in cars with a catalytic converter (like my rover mini or modern cars) no issue for you though.

You buy Brad Penn by the case (about 12 x 1L bottles) for around ~$80-90..It's green too so will match Barney 8)


So which Brad Penn? 20-50w?
http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/Racing-Oils.aspx
Thanks for the info!


Yea this one:

http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/High-Performance/SAE-20W50.aspx

These guys are the distributor:
1. Motorsport Connections PTY, LTD
Unit 15, 4a Foundry Rd
Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147
Australia
Mr. Travis Liefting/Mr. Mark Hinchelwood
011-61-2-98387272
[email protected]
Distributor

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SuperCooper
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:43 pm 
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Cheers, thanks for the info.

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Lillee
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:31 pm 
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mini0998 wrote:
Lillee wrote:
20W60 and 20W70 golly that's refrigerated honey consistency :shock:

I tried 20W60 in the old 1152 which was blowing smoke and leaking oil. It helped in those areas, but it was very difficult to find gears and shift when cold...

I do like Castrol Edge 25W50, good stuff, smells good too. Great summer oil but I just don't want to pay $48.78 for oil, especially when I change it extremely regularly (1000 miles or less sometimes)....



I like the Castrol Edge 25W50 as well. I get it at Supercrap when they have the 20% off sales. Buy a couple of bottles to get me through to the next sale. Paid $39 for it last Saturday.


Yeah before they changed the branding from Castrol Formula R to Edge I went and cleaned out my local at $20 a bottle. Purchased 10 bottles... I still have one left! Collectors item? :lol:

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:38 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
mini0998 wrote:
Lillee wrote:
20W60 and 20W70 golly that's refrigerated honey consistency :shock:

I tried 20W60 in the old 1152 which was blowing smoke and leaking oil. It helped in those areas, but it was very difficult to find gears and shift when cold...

I do like Castrol Edge 25W50, good stuff, smells good too. Great summer oil but I just don't want to pay $48.78 for oil, especially when I change it extremely regularly (1000 miles or less sometimes)....



I like the Castrol Edge 25W50 as well. I get it at Supercrap when they have the 20% off sales. Buy a couple of bottles to get me through to the next sale. Paid $39 for it last Saturday.


Yeah before they changed the branding from Castrol Formula R to Edge I went and cleaned out my local at $20 a bottle. Purchased 10 bottles... I still have one left! Collectors item? :lol:

I had one stashed too, but as it was getting old I used it in the 2nd last oilchange. Then for the last one I used XLD Classic. Surprise, the pressure is still the same as the Castrol Formula R was.

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smac
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:55 pm 
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You guys using any additives with the XLD?
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:01 pm 
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smac wrote:
You guys using any additives with the XLD?

Nope. But I'm keeping an eye on the valve lifts, every 6 months I'll check it with a dial gauge.
Current thinking of some cam shops in USA is ZDDP is needed for cam run in but not as critical afterwards.

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smac
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:16 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
smac wrote:
You guys using any additives with the XLD?

Nope. But I'm keeping an eye on the valve lifts, every 6 months I'll check it with a dial gauge.
Current thinking of some cam shops in USA is ZDDP is needed for cam run in but not as critical afterwards.

SO some kinda surface hardening happening at run-in? Supercheap here stock XLD so kinda weird they don't in the motherland.

kiwiinwgtn wrote:
We have an oil scientist in our club and he did a talk for us.

His recomendation was to use a 20/60 to a 20/70 as the mini gear box chops the oil molecules in half very quickly so your protection is halfed. This happens after 500k

As for oil he prefers shell as he has tested thousands of samples .

He did say a 20/60 will effect the syncro by slowing it down until the gearbox chops the oil up

Also a desiel oil has the best levels if zzdp but very high in dertergents which can cause problems.

Also most modern oils are very simular these days


SO B, whatcha using and where is it from? How's that Moke going? :wink:
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kiwiinwgtn
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:13 pm 
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Hi stu, moke is going great its loving this hot weather. I have penrite in it at present seams to like it . Its done about 2000km with the penrite and will change it at 5000km not sure to what too. Its a 20 / 60 weight its a little hard to change gears when cold but ok when its hot.

I didnt burn any oil with it on my road trip of 632 miles, and its still clean with good oil pressure

Kiwiinwgtn.
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XC9000
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:41 am 
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The Brad Penn Hi Performance oil is sold on the NSW South Coast of NSW by Batmac Constructions ~ contact John Battersby 0407287111, a box of 12 x .948lt which is 11.3lt. Being a USA product its sold in quart containers so its best to buy a dozen box. About $130/dozen equates to less than $60 for 5 litres so its cheaper than the high performance race oils like Edge etc. :shock:

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Cooper_Matrikon
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:58 am 
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I think I'll move back to the tried and tested XLD.

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