I know its probably been asked a thousand times before but i cannot find anything in the search so...

I am assuming these hinges have not been done before. Which way do the pins come out?

Whats your best method of punching the pins out? and the bushes?
(eg. keep them on the car? clamp them in the vice? etc)

Ive got 4 old ones off another Clubby which are not too bad in themselves but as i have the kits for them i would like to redo them.
Ive tried every which way on every which hinge.
Currently I have drilled 4 holes in a 6mm steel plate, bolted the hinge to the plate and clamped the plate in the vice (saves me having to bolt them up to a car to do) and have been hitting it for what seems like hours with no success.

The next thing i will try tomorrow is some heat and a Bigger ****ing Hammer

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

hit from below as the pins are tapered also use right size pin punch

worked for me

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65 panel van Sprog
73 panel van Iggy

Pins are 1/4" dia, and as said their top is knurled bigger.
The bronze bushes are only 5/16" OD, sometimes (often!!) the hinge is so worn that it's worn the hole oval, right through the bush.
If this happens you can get someone to turn you up a new bush 9mm OD x 1/4" bore, and drill the middle bit of the hinge to suit the bush.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i punched my pins out, then drilled them next size up , but leaving the drill bit in the hinge tap it to the shank part of the drill then cut the dill off in the hinge, tack welded thebottom of the hinge and drill bit, sounds dodgy but you get a tight no slop hinge that will last for years and if it wears again u can go up the next size drill bit next time. if your doors to have a little bit of slop in them drill the door part seperate .5mm bigger , but u dont need to do this if u want a nice firm hanging door just make sure u spray on some lube

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

thanks for all your help. i managed to get 4 hinges stripped, rust converted and etched. but geez it was hard work smacking the pins out. i think they were seized in the bushes as when i hit the pin, the bush came with it and bent the car part of the hinge. one of them snapped so i got another hinge. gotta assemble, sand and paint tomorrow.

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

living up to your name there dodgee i think the pins and bushes would be cheaper than buying 4 drill bits

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- '74 Clubman Ute project

when ur hole is elongated the brass bush kit isnt much good , thats why i went to the drill bits cheap and easy to get . after all its a door not a main bearing

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

I might have to invest or borrow one of these.

http://minisport.com.au/mini-door-hinge ... moval-tool

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

I wouldn't bother, all you need is a 5/16" punch with a 1/4" dia shoulder ground or turned on the end.
And a SFH...
Or put the punch in the bench drill and use it to press the bush out.

[edit] I milled an angled slot in a piece of alloy to support the hinge with the pin vertical.
I also use this when pressing the new pin in.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc.
Just took the boot hinges off. Do you need to put new pins in them? They are a little bit loose but maybe that is normal.
I'm not at all surprised the doors sagged. I had no idea they were so heavy!

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Boot hinges are fragile. I'd not try doing the pins.
I have saved a few of these with stripped threads. They should never have tapped these flimsy alloy or zinc? hinges with fine threads. They should have been UNC.

If stripped I tap them to 5/16 UNC, machine a 5/16 UNC bolt down to 1/4" and then thread most of it 1/4 UNF to make a `bull headed' stud..
I leave 3 or 4mm of the 5/16" UNC thread on it, and Loctite them in so the shoulder is just below flush with the hinge face. Use 1/4 UNF nuts and washers as original.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What are the new door hinges like these days? Are they any good or is the quality just not there and we are better off with the old ones?

I hear from a few sources that the new alloy door hinges are rubbish.
I'd keep repinning the old cast iron ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc. And thanks drjbeam, that is an excellent page!

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club