Hi all,
I started installing some new ball joints today and found that I don't have enough shims to space the balljoint to what the manual states. I did a search and couldn't find anything that really helped, essentially the kit I bought comes with 6 shims per side and I also have old shims from the old balljoints, but I found that I need nearly all of them to space one lower balljoint (approx 10 shims of varying thickness). Am I doing something wrong eg is pin supposed to be stiff, manual reckons slight resistance, or is it that all balljoints are different. Not sure what is the limit to shims? At the rate i am going I will need a lot more shims to finish both sides, although I reckon 5 thicker shims on the first lower balljoint might be right.
Cheers Matt

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I've not long done mine , they need to be torqed up to between 72 ft lbs to 80 ft lbs , mine were quite firm to move , just make sure you shim them up dry , then once they are correct grease them then put them together.

Cheers bill

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doesn't sound right... take the locktab plate and all shims off, clean all the grease off, assemble the balljoint dry and measure the gap between the upright and the balljoint nut

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I didn't think it was right because I was only given a few shims with the kit, but I did trial fit many times with no grease or spring and with only a couple of shims it was very tight, the manual says it should just have a small amount of friction. I thought it might be just that balljoint so i started installing the next balljoint on the top and it requires a few shims too. I have seen a few mentions of grinding paste, should I be trying some?

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There are never enough shims in the cheapo balljoint kits we get these days. Cheapskate suppliers...
NEVER throw away old shims when you fit a new balljoint, because you're gonna need them.

As for stiffness, you should just be able to move the ball pin by hand when the nut is torqued up to 72 or more.

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Cheers guys for the replies, I think I will chase some more shims, I believe I have been adjusting them to a good feel, they are tight but do not bind. I am unable to use a torque wrench because I had to weigh up whether to buy a 11/2" spanner or deep socket, the spanner won because I thought it would be more useful, and wouldn't be hindered on the pin, but I have been tightening them tight while the hub is in the vice. It's amazing how many new tools I have had to buy since purchasing the mini

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Are you shimming the lower ball joint Without the spring in place?
You need to select the shims for the lower ball joint without the spring in place.
With the spring in place it will feel tight and be impossible to tell when it is right.
Once correct shims have been selected, dissassemble and add the spring.

Could be your problem...

Dave

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Hi Dave,
Yeah I set it up without spring and trialled many combinations of shim, definitely tighter with spring in place

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The last 2 sets of balljoints i set up with new hubs and kits i had to use a ridiculous amount of shims. There were not enough provided with the kits.

I have just put new swivel hubs (disc brake) on the Monte project before Rally Australia and I still cannot get the shims right. Could be the crap manufacturing of the new hubs or the ball joint it self. Usually using the old shims and some new ones you can get it close - but no way. Pulling mine apart again today so will measure what is required and let you know how it compares to the last one I did.

Something must be wrong as Karcraft have no stock of the shim kits and won't until mid November.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Pm Me Your address and I will post You some new old stock Shims,
Also I would suggest that You lap the ball pin to the retaining nut,
this will save you having to adjust them again when the high spots wear
off

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Just my 2c worth but I think it is worth doing what JS said. I use a large drill and put threaded end in chuck to lap them. Sounds fiddly but its actually quite quick. As for shims, everyones right, they never supply enough......saves them 5c on each kit.

PM sent John, to lap the balljoint do I need some sort of grinding paste and if so where do I buy it?

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supercheap have it - valve grinding paste, comes in a double ended tube with fine and coarse

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If I were u I'd buy a torque wrench & the deep socket.

U won't be able to get it to the correct final torque for starters. but also wen it comes down to doing your final adjustments with the thinnest shims how do u know to take one out or add one if your not torquing the nut the same every time.

you might shim them up perfect by hand with spanner. If you then used a torque wrench to correct torque my guess is your come up too firm or slack in the joint.

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