Does anyone have any ideas / options for better quality blade fuse box options they could share?

I know that Narva dont really make anything too different from the supercheap ones (actually they look exactly the same). So what are the other blade fuse box options?

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

I used an aftermarket blade fuse box recently that i bought on ebay and later found that jay car sells them cheaper. It has leds that come on when a fuse blows to make it easy to find. Another option is to goto a wrecker and find one that you like on an old car. I know sigmas used to have a sliding fuse that you can use to bridge a blown one.

Wot about one of these:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OZsell-TOP-Q ... a71&_uhb=1

(I have no association with the seller)

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I'm sort of with the Convertible Mini here. Is the old fuse block causing you issues? I remember my first MGB which had only two fuses, one of which looked like a bit of fencing wire and the other a lump cut from a crow bar. Funny, I had no issues with fuses, despite hamfistedness resulting in one or two fuses blown while trying to do stuff.

I'm sure that a modern car with all the bells, whistles and bits that go 'beep' are happier with their multi-fuse contraptions. On the other hand, I've also caused issues over the years by getting things wrong and somehow survived stupidity that I should not have. Your car was designed by competent men to be a certain way. Just leave it alone. I've never seen a 'modification' to my MG's wiring result in an improvement yet have seem a number of problems fixed simply by returning the things to stock. I can't imagine Mini's are any different.

Morning Gentlemen
I'm glad I posted this topic as it seems to have generated some robust debate and definite differences of opinion.
As I mentioned in my first post, I am a novice when it comes to auto electrics so do appreciate the constructive comments from other members.
It has certainly given me food for thought on the type and rating of fuse and fusebox required as well as wire thickness required to handle the various currents.
I do agree that there's probably nothing wrong with the current 2 fuse system as it has worked for over 40 years.
My reasoning for wanting to separate the circuits and increase the number of fuses is to simplify electrical fault finding down the track.
For example, if the rear light circuit developed a short that blew one of the fuses on the 2 fuse system, I'd have to check all the circuits associated with this fuse.
If the rear lights on the other hand had a dedicated fuse, I'd know immediately that the fault was somewhere in the rear lighting circuit.
Having studied the wiring diagram intently over the last few days, I know that Mini wiring is fairly simple already but in terms of getting the car (which will be my daily driver) back on the road fast, to my mind one circuit is easier to check than many.
Cheers
Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

For anyone who wants to get "serious" with a new fuse box, check this one out!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/2810987 ... =1&lpid=94

Can't wait for Tony's comments on this one!

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Actually that won't happen. The lights aren't fused at all, so if they develop a fault the wire heats up, cuts through its insulation and fuses the whole rear loom into a melted mess.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Thanks for the heads-up Timbo, is it worth considering putting a fuse on the tail-light circuit then?

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

An in-line fuse can sometimes solve a problem simply and cheaply whilst allowing you to maintain the original main fuse box. Car radios usually have an in-line fuse, for example.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks Winabbey, inline fuses would certainly be a good idea.
I hadn't actually realised that some of the circuits weren't fused at all (thought they all somehow went through one of the two fuses-have to study the wiring diagrams some more!!).

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

If you are going to replace the fuse box, then yes I would. I've had a couple burn out in the back. I think the numberplate light wires were to blame, they can get pinched in the bootlid.

Other than that I probably wouldn't go to the trouble. I'm about to replace the wiring loom and the fuse box in my Traveller, but I'm going for originality, so I'll use the same style. I just hope I can find a decent quality fuse box, I don't wan't to get caught with a rubbish repro one. The original one looks pretty bad, but I might be able to clean it up.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

The original Lucas 4FJ boxes seem to have survived quite well over the last 40-50 years, considering Joseph was forced to make them as cheap as possible to satisfy the BMC beancounters.

And then on top of that, the Leyland beancounters decided against including a cover for the box when they came on the scene with the Clubman.

Talk about a mob of tight-ar$es.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Indeed!

Mine isn't too bad for one that is almost 53 years old. The little tangs that hold the fuses haven't snapped off, but its green and crusty. If I can clean it up so that there is no resistance through it, and the fuses will stay in it, I'll probably keep it. It is date stamped after all.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

I was looking thru some stuff at work and found this as a possible upgrade option .

Its even a Lucas one. 7fj I think.
It has dual inputs/outputs for each fuse circuit which would make it easier to put straight in.

What are your opinions??

Here's the details





Surface mounted 4-way fuse box with detachable cover. Accepts glass fuses. Connections via side mounted 6.3mm blade terminals. Has space for two spare fuses.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Looks excellent. Where can you get 'em?

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.