Hi all
Well after a year of rebuilding, I finally got to the stage of starting the van today and although it started and ran beautifully, the motor kept running even when I turned the ignition key to off.
I also noticed that the ignition light on the speedo stayed on but was barely lit whilst the motor was running.
I managed to turn the motor off by pulling the spark plug leads from the plugs.
I have recently done some rewiring so it may be something to do this but I don't know where to start looking.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

Check the +ve wire to the coil (using a multimeter) for 12 volts with the ignition switched on, and the ignition switched off. It should switch off with the key.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi Mick
Thanks for the reply.
Tried your suggestion and got 0.00V with ignition off and 12.62V when ignition is on so it looks like the ignition circuit is working.
I have modified the wiring to include solenoid fed ignition and headlight relays so may have to backtrack and see if I've wired something up wrong somewhere.
I was meticulous and all the electrics seem to work fine but it looks like I've stuffed something up.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Dave

_________________
Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

Hi all
I started the van again to see if pulling the +ve terminal off the battery would stop it (it doesn't).
I did notice that the ignition light comes on when the ignition is switched off with the key (even whilst the car is running) and turns off when the key is switched on.
Got me stumped at the moment.

_________________
Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

And what if you disconnect the coil while running (the +ve or -ve side of the coil)?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi Mick
That works!!
Pulling off the +ve white wire from ignition-motor turns off
Pulling off the distributor +ve red wire-motor turns off
Pulling off the distributor -ve black wire-motor turns off
Just sitting down to a cold bevvie now so will have another look after work tomorrow.
Thanks for your help
Dave

_________________
Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

Leave the two positive wires off for the moment, and ensure that the white wire turns on and off with the switch.
Fitting only the white wire to the +ve and the black wire to the -ve (I'm assuming your car is -ve earth), try to start and stop the car.

If this works, its a case of wormking out where the red wire is coming from. I will guess it is something to do with the alternator.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks Mick
I'll do this tomorrow morning and let you know how it goes.
I do have a modified distributor (25D) so it's an electronic ignition type with a magnetic takeoff instead of points.
The red wire from this distributor is the one attached to the +ve terminal of the coil (with the white ignition wire) whilst the black one from the distributor is on the -ve at the coil.
I've also modified the wiring to run an alternator (using the "how to" section on Ausmini).
Thanks
Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

When you replace a lot of things at once and then find a fault it is hard to track down the issue. I would recommend that people do one thing at a time and make sure it is all working fine before going on with the next step. Did you do any wiring to the old regulator?

"I have modified the wiring to include solenoid fed ignition"

Check the wire from the solenoid isn't feeding altenator power back to the ignition while engine is running.
That is if you meant asisted power from the solenoid for starting and you still have your old ignition feed in place.
Cheers Rob.

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82 BJ42 just completed resto
64 850 Modified(about to start rebuild)

I had a similar problem. Turned out to be a voltage regulator wired into the charge circuit that wasn't needed as my new alternator already had a regulator. Once it was removed, the problem went away. I'm not saying this is your issue but it's worth looking at everything you've added.

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Behold! The mighty 850!

Sounds like to me that you might be getting feedback through the alternator warning light circuit!. Disconnect the alternator light wire at the alternator, if the car stops as it should you may need a diode in the light circuit to stop it feeding your ignition. Quite a common problem when a relay is fitted for the ignition circuit as only a small amount of current is needed to keep the relay switched on.

Ash

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----------1984 Mini Mayfair with not much 1984 Mayfair left of it!-----------
----------1968 fake Cooper S that messed with a tree -----------------------------

Hi gtogreen1969 and Flash
I've removed the old voltage regulator and generator and rewired to run an alternator using these instructions from the "How To" section;
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=27591
In addition, I also added a beefed up 4mm2 wire from the +ve side of the alternator directly to the battery side (+ve) of the starter solenoid to maximise the current flow from the new alternator to the battery.
I agree it would have been better to do one thing at a time but luckily I've kept detailed records of all the work so it shouldn't be too hard to find the fault (just take some thinking and time).
Thanks for the comments/suggestions.
Dave

_________________
Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

Hi Ash (m1100S)
I found this article describing exactly what you are referring to;
http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb/ignition-run-on.pdf
I'll pull the brown/yellow ignition light wire off the alternator (IND terminal -ve) tonight.
If this is indeed the problem, I may just need an inline diode as you have suggested.
Thanks
Dave

_________________
Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

You were correct Ash

I took a punt and stopped off at Jaycar after work to pickup this;



It's a "Schottky Barrier Rectifier (40V 3A) 1N5822" which allows current to flow in one direction only (from left to right as pictured).

Following the lead of the author of the article I placed a link to (thanks Allan Brown), here's what I did with it;

Formed a loop each side and attached some wire on each end;



Soldered it up, marked the banded end (the one that needs to be closest to the alternator) with some yellow PVC tape and then shrink wrapped it;




Soldered it inline with the brown/yellow wire that goes to the small -ve (IND) terminal on the alternator and shrink wrapped the lot.



Plugged it in and fired up the beast and it now turns off with the ignition key.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I very much appreciate the advice, it would've taken me quite a while to work this one out by myself

Regards

Dave

_________________
Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)