If you are getting a professional job most places now will only do two pack, it is quicker and less labour cost.

Anyone want to chip in with why 2pak bubbles up worse than acrylic? Any facts behind it or just urban myth? I hear lots of people say similar things but I can't find anything to back up either point of view?

After researching over the last 2 months about the difference between acrylic (plastic) and 2K, the choice is really up to the individual.

With acrylic lacquer paint you have an ongoing upkeep for the paint to stay looking good. That means after the paint has fully hardened and it's been polished you then apply a "wax", like turtle wax for example. This protects the paint from road grime, acidic bug splatter, bird crap and whatever else the world can throw at it, as well as the suns UV rays which breaks down the acrylic.
Every three months or you need to strip off the "wax" protection, polish / clean the acrylic and reapply the "wax". Hence the upkeep of acrylic.

2K is hard and a lot more forgiving for what the world can throw at it, especially if it's an everyday car. You could buy a current car painted in 2K these days, drive it for two years with no care, give it a wash and it'll probably look like it was new again.

You can achieve the same gloss level with both paint systems, 2K basically straight of the gun but acrylic has to to wet rubbed and polished!
The dangers of 2K are spelt out well in painting forums and all I can say if your doing it yourself make sure you have the right protective equipment before you even start.

As for bubbles appearing under the paint, it doesn't matter weather its 2K or acrylic, if you didn't remove all the rust to start with it will come back, and if you waited too long between bare metal and primer, again it doesn't matter if you use 2K or acrylic, the bubbles will come through. Preparation and careful planning will help.

A common comments in forums I read was, "if it's a show car do it in acrylic - if it's an everyday car, do it in 2K"

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

The bubbles will only appear if rust or contaminants are present. Its not good enough to just wire wheel rust as its already happening and needs to be treated or it will come back. 2 pack wont bubble just cause its 2 pack....

Painting a car is 99.9% prep if you have any dirt rust oil etc no paint will adhere. Also if body filler is left open to the elements too long it will suck up moisture. Best thing is if it goes to bare metal prime it straight away if it is gonna be left for a bit. Also dont think primer will stop rust either cause thats porous too.

Sorry to confuse you but painting isnt hust as simple as removing then re spplying paint..

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

I'm confused about the orange peel look when painting with 2pak?
If applied correctly then the final finish of 2pak should be glossy with nil orange peel.
Like wise with Acrylic if applied correctly.
I also agree that Acrylic is easier to apply and more forgiving for amateur spray painters.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

If you have that much orange peel that it stands out then you havent done something right. Good quality spray gun with the right size nozzle, correct amount of air pressure at the nozzle and the right consistancy of paint, everything should come out smooth and glossy.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Not been mentioned yet...
If respraying in 2 pack you want the car to be in bare metal, so get all that acrylic off it first.
If you don't, and you park the car in the sun every day, the new paint will eventually craze due to the different expansion rates of these 2 paints.

I had 1st hand experience of this, when we owned Barney the pretend Cooper S (now owned by Cooper Matrikon). The PO had said it was a bare metal respray but it wasn't.
I parked it at work in the same spot for 6 months whilst my Mini was off the road. Every panel on RH side of that car now looks crap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi i am also very interested in this topic as my mini deluxe is just about to be resprayed but i am not sure which way to go. the painter said to go acrylic as it is easier to repaint parts if an accident occur rather than 2 pac. but 2 pac seems to be more hard wearing and might last longer.

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Present
- 1968 Morris Mini Deluxe- resto
-1979 Leyland Moke
-2007 R56 MINI Cooper
Past
-1964 Morris Mini Van
-1965 Morris Mini Van
-1961 Morris Mini 850

2 pack is the go. Get it done right by pro, then in a week or so, a light buff gets rid of the 'wet' look and makes it look like excellently finished acrylic.