Ok I'm sure so many of you have read or responded to these threads so I'm hoping there are a few of you still willing to assist.

Car has been running well and last run about 2 weeks ago. I have changed wheels and disconnected the wiper mirror and that is it. Little bugger won't start.

I have checked the following

Spark plugs. Little black and smelling of fuel but I have changed for new ones.
Took lead of and checked for spark. Have it. Slightly yellow/white
Disconnected fuel line from carb and fuel pumps
Attached booster battery for extra power
Checked rotor and points. Move freely
Start you ba@$tard into carb and all four spark plug holes and won't kick over.
Compression is fine on all four

I'm a novice so please be understanding.

Thanks in advance

How old is your fuel ?

Unfortunately these types of problems are mainly trial & error diagnosis , start with the easy ones first .
It's always handy to have a few NEW spares in your kit for times like these , ie; plugs , points , leads & coil , dissy cap & rotor , fuel filter ,at least then when you start changing them over you have a chance of finding out which part was the culprit .

As a rule , if you have good spark & clean fuel they should fire , if not thats when the fun begins

Thanks Goodie. I'm thinking it could be the problem

How old are the HT leads? Old leads and a cold morning were often an issue when I lived in Tassie!

Minimadmarty they are about 6 months old. I dont think this is the issue as i see a good spark plus yesterday was 32c and i started the car about midday.

how old is the coil could be a problem

Did you dis arm the immobiliser??? Lol done that many a time...

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

You say you put spray (syb) down carby and nothing then you can rule out lack of fuel. If it had fired and died, then yes to fuel problem.
Next, it started a couple of weeks before so barring something totally weird, you have to assume it's got compression / timing right etc. Contrary to popular beleifs, distributors don't climb out and put them selves back in wrong just to pi&& you off.
You say plugs were fuely, I'd be looking for spark problem. Although you say it has spark, is it good? It should be 'thick and strong', jumping at least 6-8 mm. If it's not there's a few things that'll cause it, firstly the points being dirty/burnt or just way out in gap.
Secondly a dud condensor will cause little or no spark, usually a thin weak spark.
Next is coil, if it's cracked/burnt you should see arcing around tower. Checking it in night/ darkness is easier.
Just because leads are relatively new don't assume they're not faulty, still check spark at each one.
To check rotor button is a two person job. First take dist cap off and move aside, unplug coil lead out of cap. Now hold lead about 6-8 mm from CENTRE of rotor (where little brush touches), and then get someonr to try and start it. Make sure your fingers are well up on insulated section of lead and AWAY from rotor button is it'll be spinning. The spark shouldn't arc onto rotor if it's ok, if it does the rotor button's faulty.
Other thing to check is make sure the carbon brush is in cap. If you can check it in pitch darkness you might see some teltail arcing around ignition bits.

If all else fails are you in the NRMA? Only problem with that is you'll probably get some pimply faced young kid who's never seen a set of points, let alone know how to fix 'em. lol

Connect up the wiper motor again...and see what happens...you may have lost a dodgy connection

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"Show me the Mini!"

So I siphoned out all the fuel and I reconnected the wiper and still no go. Kept checking the spark and it is still there but seems like it's only about 4mm and more yellow. Ohms look right on coil. Any more thoughts?

Checked rotor and points. Move freely...ummmmm, OK

But are the surfaces clean?

Rub the rotor flat surface gently on crocus paper or smooth concrete until bright...are the points BLACKENED?

Checked the spring in the carbon conductor in the distributor cap? It should just return when you gently push it in...

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"Show me the Mini!"

Yellow spark = a dud condenser. Usually...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

did you refill the fuel tank?

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It's easy once you know how.

Yes...probably Chinese

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"Show me the Mini!"

Really????? A yellow spark is enough not to start? I thought a spark was enough to at least get it going.