Ausmini
It is currently Sat Jul 19, 2025 1:58 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 71 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:17 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Ok, so I fitted the M's again, Red springs and Air Compressor Oil (what grade is that stuff? )

Pulled the BP6ES plugs again to double check the gap. Were probably at .040", gave them a clean up as they were fouled. Set them down to .035"

Got a better idle then what I had with the 3s or AH2s. Looking at Stations 1 and 2 the 3s and AH2 are obviously thinner hence the rich idle.

Went for a blocky with the LM-2 and could see it was to lean. I think I saw it up around 17:1 at one point with just slow part throttle. WOT was still around 14.5:1. So I took it steady and headed back home.

Fitted the H6's with Red springs and the same air compressor oil. Had to lean the idle out a bit. The 1st station is the same between the H6 and M however there is quite a jump on the 2nd station compared with the M.

Went for a drive. Part throttle slow accel is still a little lean like about 15:1. WOT is around 13.8-14.3:1. If I stick it in 4th at about 30kph and accel it is a little leanish again about 15ish:1.

Cruise on the hway at 80 still seems rich? 12.5:1

Im waiting on the MG shop mob to start back at work so I can get those yellow springs just to give them a try.

Should I perhaps try the H6's, Red springs with a heavier damper oil?

I think Im kind of heading in the right direction. Seems to drive pretty well part throttle and WOT. If Im in say 3rd at low speeds and put my foot down I can see it does go lean for a moment on the LM-2 and I feel a bit of a hesitation but its only momentary. Thats would had me thinking about playing with oils and springs next and sticking with the H6s.

Timing is also set to 10deg BTDC. Floats are also set as per SU Midel specs, nylon float with metal arm so can be adjusted. Electric fuel pump, one of those noisy buggers but its rubber mounted so not to bad, and a pressure regulator set to 3psi I think.

How can I determine total advance? Ken Nelson curved my dizzy many years ago and I dont have the vac advance connected, but I dont know what the total advance is?

Ive also got a vac gauge that I could plumb into my manifold, would that help with setting idle mixture? I know it helped with tweaking the mixture on my Rochester Quadrajet on the SL/R 5000 but not sure if its the same principle with SU's?

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:33 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Easiest way to check max advance, or build an advance map is buy a dialback timing light.
Convertible mini sells one now, but I got mine from USA before. Had it 5 years, no probs.

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3568-Digit ... B000EVYGV4

Dunno if Amazon ships here ,if not do a search.

Snap-On has one too, if you have the $$$.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:36 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Ah ha, actually Im pretty certain my mate has one. Has a fancy digital display etc and different modes. Ill have to have a read of the owners manual.

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 6:37 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
I wonder how the H6s would go with a slightly heavier damper oil but use the blue springs? This might lean it out a little on cruise?

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:11 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I'd forget using blue springs on a 1330, they will lift right up too soon. Then no mixture control.
Blue springs are good on an 850 or 998 with twins.
The damper oil only affects richness when you first open the throttle, they have no effect at steady throttle opening.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:38 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Righteo. Yep I thought they may cause the piston to rise to quickly thats why I thought about using a heavier damper oil.

Any other thoughts on getting the cruise mixture a bit leaner? I feel its a bit rich at 12.5:1 part throttle cruising in 4th at 80kph.

I would imagine a yellow spring would make this situation worse? The H6 is only just fractionally richer in the 3,4,5,6 stations compared with an M, which was standard for Cooper S.

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:58 am 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
How new are the jets? If worn, you will have problems getting it leaner at low throttle openings.
If buying new jets, get genuine ones- I had trouble with an Australian made`Fuel Miser' one and unleaded fuel. Its hose swelled shut.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 8:02 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Both carbs just had full strip down and rebuild with new kits from SU Midel. Needles are also new. New manifold/carb gaskets etc. The jet fuel hose that I have, have a flexy metal coil around the outside of the hose. Hard to explain....

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:17 am 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18887
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Male sure the pistons are drooping down sweetly all the way. If the jets aren't centered they will stand up a little and affect the mixtures.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:17 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Yep all thats confirmed OK. Piston movement is beautifully smooth and free. Jets centred fine.

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 12:34 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:25 pm
Posts: 1322
Location: wooToomba
Brad, Doc's right, the dampener oil only affects how quickly the pots rise. So, heavier oil won't affect cruising, it'll only affect acceleration.

I've no idea what grade Air Tool oil is, I just used it because 1018cc uses it! And he uses it - I think - primarily because it's fairly light, it's something you use elsewhere and therefore have lying round the shed, and it's cheap! It could be right, could easily be very wrong! For your engine, and for mine.

My GUESS from your numbers is that, currently, the oil's having much more impact on your dashpot levels than your springs. Constant cruise with the H6's is too rich, yet acceleration's lean? That would make me think that the dashpot's rising too far (which is the spring rate), but it's probably rising a bit too slowly..? Then again, if you change springs, the dashpot oil may need to change again. I remember DrMini saying that he (and GR?) discovered that one of his cars needed dashpot oil only in winter - the rest of the time, the oil slowed things down too much.

What I'm confident about is that changing your springs WILL improve your cruise mix. Currently, you're running rich. So, you want to run leaner under constant load. You want to run on a thinner part of the needle for a given load, a lower station number. You want the dashpot to stay lower. Lower compared to where it sits at WOT at peak torque. Which means you want a heavier spring. Which, from a Red, is a Yellow.

Don't forget, the moment you change the springs, all the readings you've taken with the LM-2 will be different. Relatively, the needles will be richer and leaner as they currently are, but my expectation is that the M's will go from being lean to being a bit rich, and the H6's would go from close to being VERY rich. Which ties to WinSU advising you to use those super-lean needles you specified back on the other page.

I hope those MG boys open up again for you on Monday! Though that's still too far away! And I'm glad you tightened up your spark plug gaps. :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:50 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Thanks for your input mate. Its good to get another opinion.

Can do to much more until possibly next weekend as the springs will take a week to get to me...provided they post them out on Monday....

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 8:15 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2012 1:39 pm
Posts: 584
Location: qld
More of an enquiring observation than a suggestion. The vac advance is disconnected. it generally assists fuel economy at cruise, a bit more advance a better burn and maybe leaner ( how else would it improve economy)? so try it with t he vac reconnected


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:27 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Thanks mate. Thats an interesting suggestion. The Vac advance assy on the dizzy is U/S. I think I cut the spring off internally many years ago.

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: SU Needle suggestion
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 1:34 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
Posts: 6844
Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
I cant think that Ive had the Vac advance connected for many many years..... I cant even think why I didnt have it hooked up, probably didnt like the look of the hose going up over the motor or something stupid.....

Thanks very much for your suggestion, thats like a light bulb moment really. Not having that hooked up would have an effect on the mixture at light load/cruise!!!!

Next problem is finding a serviceable Vac advance unit to suit a Lucas 29D...... which is probably impossible????

I had Ken Nelson re-bush and re-curve this dizzy and I also have a Pertronix pickup inside with new rotor cap and button etc. Soooo just for the sake of it, Id rather not buy a new distributor just so I can have Vac Advance....

_________________
Image
http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 71 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 102 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.