Hi guys. Can someone clarify if its OK to bolt up a 12YE|A|H.... short to a manual box without any changes please
...or if there are modification essential generally what they are - grateful for contributions.

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..still waiting for the Italian Job sequel to see if the bus went down

Not a bolt-on job I'm afraid, some machining needs to be done.

Check out this useful thread by DrMini :

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1461&hilit=1275+auto

cheers,

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

If you send me the block I can modify it, and supply a new pump spacer.

I run a 12YE/A/H block in my car. No problems at all.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have a 12YE in my Hairy Lime Clubman. I bought it on E bay years ago after someone realized it was an Auto Block after he bored it out I did the rest of the Mod Myself and bought a Pump spacer from Mr Matt Readspead. One of the modifications I enjoyed doing. You will need to Buy a Long shank drill to drill the oil Gallery and you will also need to change the Oil Pressure relief Valve seat. Plus, I can't remember exactly but I had to modify something to do with the bolts that hold the gearbox to block. I think I had to drill and tap to bigger bolts or something.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

No need to retap the block flange for a road car, they are 1/4 UNF the same as a manual and in the same place. Just unscrew all the studs and toss them.
Racers used to (maybe still do) tap the block out to 5/16 UNF and drill the gearbox flange to suit. Folklore says this was because thin flange blocks used to leak at the gasket. Maybe true because Vizard said so, but I've never seen it happen on a road car.
Most 1100S auto and all 1300 auto blocks are thick flange anyway.

Hints (if you didn't read my auto block mod thread):
1.The relief valve seat MUST be removed before drilling the relief valve to oil pump hole. Because the oil hole is offset sideways a mm or two, you can't get the 8.5mm long series drill in there straight with the seat in place. It is tapped 3/8 UNC, use a head stud, spacer, washer & nut to remove it.
2. There are 2 holes drilled in the relief valve seat, these MUST be blocked (I braze them up) or else fit a manual relief valve seat instead.
3. The oil pump spacer MUST be bolted into the block before you drill from the relief valve to the pump. Because, this hole will be 1/2 in the spacer and 1/2 in the block when drilled.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'll swap you a complete 1275 manual engine/gearbox for it.

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Justin

Sorry Gentlemen I have been away.
Thanks for the comments. Kevin you're are legend as always & most grateful (again) for your senior knowledge.
Thx2 to our mate Tony.
Justin, I see you are keen, i also have the delivery book for the car withthis engine allocation. Its a short motor but lanoxed and turns well. I've stored it 5 years & have the receipt.
You say 1275 + GB is that with a 3.76diff by any chance? And how would we do this? PM?
Wayne

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..still waiting for the Italian Job sequel to see if the bus went down