'98 Rover - Verto Clutch (Self Adjusting)

For the past month or so my clutch has not been disengaging entirely leading to crunching into reverse. Lately it has become a bit more noticeable, with first and second becoming difficult to find (no crunching yet). I've got a new steel clutch hose and a slave cylinder less than a year old. I've bled the system 3 or more times, and it never seems to make much difference. Strangely, some days the clutch actually feels more responsive and solid than others, and some days there is no crunching at all.

The question is this: Is it possible there are faults in the hydraulic system even though there aren't any noticeable leaks?

Thanks,

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

Generally speaking if there are no leaks, the hydraulics are fine. No leaks from the master cylinder into the car?
The plunger and arm are prone to wear if they aren't nicely greased, and any slack that appears here could possibly effect things like you say.

I had the exact same symptoms after putting a new clutch in - I replaced the master cylinder, hose, slave, plunger and bearing and still had it a bit tight till the clutch wore in properly.

Grinding when going into reverse can be normal - if you dont go into 1st gear first to stop the idler spinning.

If the ball at the end of the clutch arm is worn, then the arm will need to push out further to do the same job. However, eventually the clutch slave piston will contact the circlip at the end of the slave. It feels like its all the way out, but its not. It pulls up hard on the clip.

Lift the rubber boot to see if the piston is touching the circlip with the pedal pushed all the way in.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

And if you have a floor mat try driving without it!

When you bleed, is there air in it?
Has the slave cylinder been replaced anytime recently, or is is painted silver?
Reproduction slave cylinders have an incorrect spring seat behind the piston. This allows the seal lip to collapse inwards and suck air on the pedal upstroke.
Cure is rob the plastic spring seat/seal spreader out of an old slave cylinder and fit it, with a new seal.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I replaced the slave cylinder along with a steel hose about a year ago. Picked up the cylinder from Lindsay at MinisPlus, so I'd like to believe its a quality one. To answer the question, no air comes out when I bleed it. Tonight I'll do a more thorough inspection of the master cylinder, checking inside the cabin as you've mentioned. I also plan to check the pedal linkage and clevis pin, the ball on the end of the arm, and I'll see about pulling the boot back on the slave cylinder (how will I be able to see inside?!?).

My gearbox has always been smooth as butter in and out of every gear. These symptoms just crept up out of nowhere, and have been getting slightly worse day by day.

A while back I thought I was beginning to hear a bit of release bearing noise, but it cured itself. Could this be a culprit?

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

Is yours an SPI with Verto or pre Brian?

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

SPI Verto

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)