Now my clubby van is on the road, I've been buzzing around getting the engine sorted and all those fine tuning things.

Generally I'm really pleased with the engine, goes fantastic for a 1022cc, all except one problem.

Every time I really give it some stick, especially if I go WOT for a bit, it suddenly dies and acts like it has no fuel. If I nurse it for a bit, it eventually comes good and I can drive normally again, including good (but not full) acceleration.

Now I had a cheap supercrap clear plastic filter before the pump (took that off - no difference) and I could see what looked like air bubbles coming up the line?

I've checked the fitting into the tank -it's tight, all the fuel hose is new and fittings tight (except for the original steel pipe, but it all looked fine, no kinks etc).

Spec is :

1022cc, 731 cam (5 deg adv), 9.5:1 compression, 295 head ported with 1275 valves, 1.3 roller rockers, HS4 (AAM needle) on minispares manifold & K&N cone filter, goss mech fuel pump, regraphed hitachi dizzy, maniflow freeflow extractors into an RC40.

Any ideas? Goss pump not up to it? Float bowl (took the lid off, needle valve seems ok)? Something up with the SU dashpot?

A bit stuck for what to try next

Cheers,

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Get it to hesitate and immediately switch it off and check the fuel level in the float bowl.
That will straight away sort out if it is a fuel supply problem.

Yeah good call, I guess that will sort out that question. Always seems to be up hills as well!

ps. I do have a vented cap (no vent on van tanks).

cheers,

_________________
'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

after you`ve checked your fuel-delivery system,,,
i`d probly try a stronger dash-pot spring &/or change mixture needle

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I had the same problem on my mini 2 days ago,
I replaced the ignition coil and that fixed it.

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1967 Morris mini Deluxe
1968 Buick Riviera
1979 HZ Kingswood
1979 CM Valiant
1982 Jaguar XJ6 series 3
2002 VX HSV
2013 Mazda 6
2018 Gt Mustang

I'm assuming its got the mechanical pump, if so, maybe do a fuel pump check re delivery rate. Sometimes if they're laid up for a while or the pumps old, the diaphragm gets hard and doesn't flex like it should. Some get better with use, others just split and die.

Thanks for all the replies guys.

Hopefully tomorrow after work I'll get a chance to check the fuel delivery. I'll post up what I find once I have something to report!

cheers,

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Ok test done.

I swapped the coil as it's easy to do, and elminates one other thing.

Then I went on the same drive that brought it on as before, and as per Morris' suggestion, switched off straight away when the problem started to surface...

...and yhup, float bowl nearly empty!

Okay so the Goss mechanical pump is not delivering. I have a Repco electric pump here that came with a Morris 1100 - looks pretty new, and very much like the Facet solid-state pump.

It seems they're supposed to go only 12" away from the tank - how much luck will I have with it just giving it a go wired/plumbed up in the engine bay? I've seen cars with this as a permanent install, but the internet says "no!"

cheers,

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

I would stick the electric pump under the bonnet as a temporary thing to see if it removes the problem and then install it properly if it is the answer.

You can still buy kits for the Goss pump. My local Auto1 can get them.

I've seen quite a few minis with electric pumps in the engine bay, the only issue i've seen is on install and after sitting for a long time they might need to have fuel sucked through them before they pump anything but air.

You may want to check the float level in the carb: that it isnt too low.

Just a thought! have you tried taking off the air filter and taking it for a run? could be starving for air?

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

I'd do what Morris suggested. As said Facet style ones are a push type pump and best mounted down the back.
Another downside to having an electric pump up high in the engine bay is they can suffer from vapour lock when hot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have seen a lot of Facet pumps mounted in the engine bay.
I have also seen a lot of Minis with their fans facing the wrong way.

Just because someone else does it does not make it right.

I say!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ntVWRhfqo0

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"Show me the Mini!"