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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:22 pm 
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Hi everyone.

So it came time to start the old girl after the blown head gasket overheating affair. She didn't start without a fight - I was losing hope and then I heard a cough from within and finally got going.

The only problem is she's running on 3 cylinders. It is number 1 cylinder (closest to rad end). What are some possible causes be? I've changed to other leads and spark plugs to no avail. What else should I be checking?

I run an electronic dissy. The spark plug is wet with fuel and there is a spark from both sets of leads and plugs but clearly not firing.

Any help would be great.

Cheers
James

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Last edited by jprior2912 on Tue Mar 10, 2015 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:34 pm 
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Have you disconnected the fuel and tried grounding the plug to see if it still sparks?

Also, have you compression tested since the gasket has been changed?

Does it only run on three for all revs, or will it start firing if you give it more revs? Might just be running too rich.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:51 pm 
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Irish Yobbo wrote:
Have you disconnected the fuel and tried grounding the plug to see if it still sparks?

Also, have you compression tested since the gasket has been changed?

Does it only run on three for all revs, or will it start firing if you give it more revs? Might just be running too rich.


Hi there

I didn't even think to do a compression test. I just had my comp gauge (I'm not sure HOW accurate it is, but here are the results

Cylinder 1 (not firing) - Didn't even register a number
Cylinder 2 - 150 psi
Cylinder 3 - 50 psi
Cylinder 4 - 130 psi

I think the engine is a boat anchor right?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:55 pm 
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was about to say, just check the rockers on #1 before you get too upset, one might not be closing

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:57 pm 
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simon k wrote:
was about to say, just check the rockers on #1 before you get too upset, one might not be closing


This. Afterwards, check compression - if it's still bad, put a little oil in your cyclinder and try again. If the pressure rises, it's your rings. If not, most likely a valve stem seal, or maybe a cracked head :/

Did you check your head for flatness and/or have it machined flat?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 4:09 pm 
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Irish Yobbo wrote:
simon k wrote:
was about to say, just check the rockers on #1 before you get too upset, one might not be closing


This. Afterwards, check compression - if it's still bad, put a little oil in your cyclinder and try again. If the pressure rises, it's your rings. If not, most likely a valve stem seal, or maybe a cracked head :/

Did you check your head for flatness and/or have it machined flat?


I'm not too sure what I'm looking for exactly. With the rocker cover off the springs seem to go up and down.. does that mean their closing correctly?

I should also note I got head work done once it overheated - it's definitely not cracked it got tested, I also got double valve springs put in cause a couple on mine broke. All new stem seals and valves serviced ect. It also had some porting a polish and was decked for flatness.

Would that mean my rockers would be all out of whack? Just chucked them back on how they came off cause I don't know how to adjust that stuff correctly

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 4:18 pm 
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Yeah im guessing you got a valve not clos8ng. Rockers need to be adjusted especially since you had the head skimmed.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 4:26 pm 
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jprior2912 wrote:
Irish Yobbo wrote:
simon k wrote:
was about to say, just check the rockers on #1 before you get too upset, one might not be closing


This. Afterwards, check compression - if it's still bad, put a little oil in your cyclinder and try again. If the pressure rises, it's your rings. If not, most likely a valve stem seal, or maybe a cracked head :/

Did you check your head for flatness and/or have it machined flat?


I'm not too sure what I'm looking for exactly. With the rocker cover off the springs seem to go up and down.. does that mean their closing correctly?

I should also note I got head work done once it overheated - it's definitely not cracked it got tested, I also got double valve springs put in cause a couple on mine broke. All new stem seals and valves serviced ect. It also had some porting a polish and was decked for flatness.

Would that mean my rockers would be all out of whack? Just chucked them back on how they came off cause I don't know how to adjust that stuff correctly


OK, so it's probably your rockers then, if you've had you head adjusted, they need to be adjusted too. If you jack up one side of the car and put it in gear, you can turn the wheel to turn the engine and watch the rockers open and shut.

Each rocker should open - the spring will fully depress, and there will be a gap between the rocker arm and the top of the rocker. If there is no gap, the valve will not go up high enough to create a seal with the head.

So going back to turning the wheel, watch the rockers and turn until one arm is as high as possible. At that point, get a feeler gauge and check the clearance between the rocker and the valve. If memory serves, it should be a 12-15 thou gap, but don't take my word for it. Some people also do different gaps for the exhaust and inlet. But anyway, once you have one valve done, keep tuning the wheel until the next rocker is at it's peak, and repeat. The engine will fire cylinders 1-3-4-2, so the valves will also follow this order. Do all the exhaust valves, then the inlet (or inlet then exhaust - if you want to do inlet and exhaust at the same time, you can, but the order isn't as simple to follow :)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:27 pm 
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just to add to Irish's post there...

You adjust the gap marked '2' in this photo :

Image

Using feeler gauges and spanner and screwdriver as shown.

Then follow the "Rule of 9" as shown below to adjust them in sequence - stock cams are 12 thou gap...and happy days should follow :D

Image


cheers,

Jacob

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:47 pm 
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When I have done the rocker clearance I set the cylinder to TDC for for the firing stroke for #one cylinder so both valves should be closed and adjusted both inlet and exhaust.
Then wound the engine over 180 deg to the next cylinder #3 (see which one the rotor button is facing) and adjust both valves for this cylinder and on you go.
Is this OK :|

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:52 pm 
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Yup that works phil

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 8:12 am 
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Phil 850 wrote:
When I have done the rocker clearance I set the cylinder to TDC for for the firing stroke for #one cylinder so both valves should be closed and adjusted both inlet and exhaust.
Then wound the engine over 180 deg to the next cylinder #3 (see which one the rotor button is facing) and adjust both valves for this cylinder and on you go.
Is this OK :|


Haha, yep, sounds easier than my method with each cylinder separately.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:26 pm 
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Thanks everyone. It doesn't seem too bad to do then. Does anyone know the inlet/ exhaust clearance for a GR Re83 cam? It aas mentioned a stock cam is 12 thou

Cheers
James

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:36 pm 
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Most people run 15thou on mild to mid range cams.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:38 pm 
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jprior2912 wrote:
Thanks everyone. It doesn't seem too bad to do then. Does anyone know the inlet/ exhaust clearance for a GR Re83 cam? It aas mentioned a stock cam is 12 thou

Cheers
James


According to the good doc here, the clearance for the RE83 cams is 0.016" for 1.3 rockers.


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