My car sits low. Sump is 8cm off the ground. Axle to wheel arch heights are about 260mm except for the rear left which is 10mm lower. It has Hi-Los on the front but not on the rear. Just want to confirm that the trumpets haven't been cut down. I measured the rear left at 300mm from the cone boss to the knuckle end. Can anyone tell me if this is the standard length. Picture to explain it better.

Yeh thats about right give or take a few mm.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Thanks. I might try some knuckle shims to lift the rear 20mm.

20mm is a bit more than a shim
Check the knuckle and socket are ok. I had one that wore all the way through the swing arm
If not the cones are stuffed

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Remember it is about 5:1 ratio on the rear so a 20mm ride height difference is only about 4mm on the trumpet (or hi-lo if fitted)...

Sorry but this is the most likely culprit. Once the joint goes dry it quickly wears the nuckle through the nylon cup and begins to destroy your rear trailing arm. You can build it back up with some JB weld and place a new cup inside, or find a better rear trailing arm but these are getting harder to find now. I used to throw trailing arms away, too heavy and bulky to store but the last few years I have been collecting all the good ones I can find. Same problem on upper arm at the front. Just note hydro arms are different to dry and swapping them will lead to different spring rate.
G>

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Quite easy to stick a bit of metal putty (or just epoxy) in the hole and then push the replacement cup back on top. The lip of the cup should sit about 3mm clear of the arm.

I just went and measured mine - its 280 (ish)mm at the front and 300 at the back. Must admit, I've not measured it before. I use "two fingers" clearance between tyre and arch in front and 3 (and a tidge) at the back.

Unless you've done it recently then the knuckle joints could no doubt do with replacement. Do that then assess the height. IMHO you won't be far off my measurements. If you want a bit more then wind up the front Hilos and add shim(s) at the back.

The next step is to assess the rubber springs. You may get away with swapping them back to front and replacing one set with those from the back of the least used Clubbie you can find...

Cheers, Ian

The car was set up as a hill climber. There are no bump stops and I can only get 1 finger between the tyres and body. Because it was lowered with the Hi-Los at the front I assumed that they would have done something to the rears as well. Maybe they were just lucky that the cups have worn through so they didn't need to fit Hi-Los to the rear.
Have ordered new knuckles. Just have to get motivated now.
Thanks for the input.
Found this the other day which is exactly what Low n Blown was talking about. But they say they haven't done it themselves. http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/technical- ... placement/

Got to love that webpage.

Quote: Hopefully the epoxy will be strong enough to support the new cup and stop it distorting into the worn area.
Please note that we have not actually tried this ourselves, and would welcome feedback from anyone who decides to give it a go.

Gives you great confidence

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

You may have noticed that I like to use photos to explain things. Saves any confusion - especially with my oldtimers. Is this the 3mm gap your talking about? I have felt the back of the knuckle support and it hasn't gone all the way through yet.

Yes that is the gap, you need it to clear the lip of the rubber boot.

Araldite (super strength) works fine, I've used it before, no need to use filled epoxy. But I'd stay away from the rapid set 5 minute stuff.

Hint- if you want the knuckle joints to last, put a bit more lithium grease in them. I also have a grease needle, you stick it through the boot. Once a year I give them all 1 shot with the gun.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.