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Timbo
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:44 pm 
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M-JAY wrote:
I've had an SIP gas gasless thing for a few years now and it has never worked properly, ... It is utterly the worst piece of junk that I have ever used.


Yes, pretty much my experience. Its OK, but it certainly doesn't do quality welds, and its completely inconsistent, you get a different result every time you pull the trigger.

I've replaced the plastic liner with a metal one, that helped somewhat. I've fitted a capacitor and modified the switching of the power, as per this thread http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/sip-welder-mods.9206/, but it didn't help that much. Next mods are to replace the gun, and fit a better wire feed motor, and by then I reckon it should be OK.

Tim

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braad
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:49 pm 
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Morbo28 wrote:
Ever get déjà vu braad? :)


Sure do! Just waiting for some else to set a welder up just like mine :wink:

drmini in aust wrote:
thegimpy1972 wrote:
Hi just purchased Cigweld 135. Gas and gasless from supercheap for $299 on promo. The unit can get down to 30 odd amps for thin metal. Has 4 amp settings and wire speed adjust.


With any MIG machine, the switch positions are for volts, not amps. Wire feed rate = amps. Double the wire speed, and you (basically) double the amps.
Voltage controls the arc length, and also affects the mode of metal transfer across the arc. Low voltage = `short arc' transfer, high voltage = `spray arc' transfer (if your machine is big enough...) :wink:
The machine holds the set voltage (which is why they are called constant voltage) and varies the output amps to maintain the arc length.

Go down in wire diameter eg from 0.9 to 0.8, and the amps will be less, at the same wire speed.
Clear as mud??? :lol:



Thanks Doc. Not sure about anyone else, but that actually makes sense to me. Cheers!

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Dabid
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:16 pm 
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Thanks for all your help and advice guys.
a mate of mine has put me onto a store here in Perth that his brother (welder) recommends and said I might want to have a look at this.

http://www.weldsmart.com.au/welding-aus ... arc-welder

Said the store was in the process of setting up a welding bench so you could try out the different welders before you made a choice. So might see if I can stop in there and throw a few beads down
and see if it's any good.

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thegimpy1972
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:20 pm 
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Thanks Doc for your for your information. I believe a lot of people on this forum benefit from the knowledge you supply. I am one of them. Thank you.
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poeee
PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:30 am 
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I have a SIP Gas/Gasless and I've had the same experience. Not consistent at all. Latest repairs on the Crudman I had the trigger fail so I borrowed a mates Weldcorp 100A Gasless (which he bought second hand, and has been around the block countless times). It is much more primitive compared to my SIP, and it scared the hell out of me as it is live even without the use of the trigger (trigger is just wire feed), but that thing was better than my SIP ever was. Good to know that I'm actually ok with a welder!

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Alexw
PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:31 pm 
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The grey box SIP welders are rubbish. I know because I've used one for about 10 years. One of the problems is the voltage droop on the wire feed when the arc starts. I've also had issues with consistency of weld apart from that. Use larger ID tips, that helps.
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stewartrjh
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:49 pm 
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I have a SIP 150 as well (grey one) also have the capacitor mod, but a much much bigger one than in those pics.
Done the brace on the plastic wire feed mech and a metal liner only recently after the plastic one wore out, goes nearly as good as my Mates CIG Brumby 180 now.


Stewart.
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Timbo
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 9:22 am 
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I figure that if you can weld OK with a hobby SIP you'll be brilliant with a real welder.

Tim

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stewartrjh
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 12:46 pm 
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You could be right.....
My mate paid $1200 new for his CIG, I paid $220 second hand for the SIP.
I did not buy it to work on cars, it has rebuilt a trailer, made all sorts of frames and jigs.
It however has done quite well on sheet metal after I have learned a bit.

I used an 18,000uF Capacitor in mine, it sure made a difference.
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miniDave
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:16 pm 
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1275LS
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 10:17 pm 
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DrMini is on the money. Below is a link to a document along the same lines.

http://www.cigweld.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/NZ-The-Shed-May-2011-p63_68-Gasless-proof-2.pdf

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