Does anyone know or have recommendation for idler gear end float tolerance, I have a combination of different thrust bearings and end plates but not sure what the correct assembled gap should be?

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe - members gallery
1970 Morris Cooper S - members gallery
Mini's I grew up with
Slot car couch

I do them between .004"-.006". Check it BEFORE you bolt the motor on.
If too tight the case can grab the washers when hot, if too loose the idler bangs about and gives more backlash.

[edit] I have a zillion good s/h idler washers here, I bought all Mini Suzuki's stock when they got out of Mini repairs.
However, most are between 0.130"-.134". Sing out if you need some.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Also keep in mind that bolting the motor on could pull the case in closer, reducing that clearance. I've never had it happen so this is just hearsay, but be sure to butt the motor hard up against the clutch cover and tighten up the clutchcase-to-motor bolts before tightening the motor-to-gearbox bolts.

Thanks for you help fellas

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe - members gallery
1970 Morris Cooper S - members gallery
Mini's I grew up with
Slot car couch

In 40+ years I've never seen a gearbox case that wasn't flush with the end of the block when assembled.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I haven't seen it either, but I think the theory is sound. If the gearbox is bolted up first, the side cover gasket isn't compressed against the engine, and could have a few thou of clearance. So when the side cover is then bolted on, it can pull it in a little closer. Not sure if it can really cause issues, but there's no reason not to do the side cover bolts first, just to be sure.

The idler gear boss is way down below the engine flange, 1/2 way to the bottom.
I can't see how bolting the engine on would affect it.
I set it up with the housing gasket I am going to use, and torque it up, just the 5 nuts inside the housing. Then I measure the idler's endfloat. Be careful pulling the housing back off that the gasket doesn't rip on the 2 dowels.

I now also have some gear to measure this endfloat with the engine bolted on, but it's easier to do it beforehand.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.